Wispy strata clouds were ablaze with golden hues of orange, magenta, and crimson as the sun cast horizontal rays across the Baja desert and settled into the Sierra Martir Mountains. It was another spectacular tequila sunset. We realized that in the morning, we would be crossing the international border into the United States, and our adventure south would come to an end, at least for now. Over the past 10 days, we had explored abandoned mines and 250-year-old missions, visited old friends and made new ones, and shredded tires and rebuilt a dead motor in a dust storm. On the Lost Coast, we had been axle-deep in coastal sand drifts and buried in estuarial quagmires, and we kayaked with seals. Overall, we logged more than 650 miles on Baja's most remote backroads. Poring over our maps, we came to the realization that there was another 3,000 miles of dirt roads we had missed. Believe us, we're already planning for our next adventure south of the border. Mafana, mafana.
More Tips To Surviving In BajaOn the Road
Although Mexico is just a stone's throw away, don't forget it is a foreign and semi-third-world country. Using your head can reduce the odds of running into trouble.,* Don't travel alone. There is safety in numbers, especially if you break down with 50 miles of cactus between you and the nearest paved road.,* Don't travel at night. We've seen staged accidents, with someone waving you to pull over while their amigos are waiting in the brush for an unsuspecting target.,* Highway 1 should be driven with caution. Dozens of white crosses strewn up and down the peninsula are evidence that Baja Winding sections have no shoulder and are just wide enough for two semis. Accidents are usually bad and help is a long-time coming.,* Camping: While Baja California's not crawling with the rumored banditos, every place has a bad apple here and there. It's a good idea to set up camp out of sight of the main routes.
Cash Isn't Always King
Sometimes you can buy more lobster with a six-pack and a carton of Camels than with a $20 bill. Gratuities, such as cold drinks, American cigarettes, and those magazines your dad kept hidden are greatly appreciated by federales at remote checkpoints. The most important thing about money is not to flaunt it. That's just asking for trouble.
Fuel
The Mexican government has a monopoly on fuel, and Pemex stations are popping up everywhere. The availability of diesel has also improved. Travel tip: The savvy Baja traveler never runs the tank low. It is not uncommon to see tourists waiting a day or two for the gas tanker to arrive. Often, locals will show up with a 55-gallon drum in the back of an old jalopy. Will the price be higher? We'll just say it will be the cheapest around. Bring a chamois to filter your non-Pemex purchase.
Telephones and Internet
Communication south of the boarder has become much better over the last few years. The cheapest and easiest way to phone the U.S. is with a phone card. Ladatel and Telmex sell cards at most local markets in towns with phone service. Avoid the blue phones that advertise "Call the U.S." They're a rip-off. Some cities now have cybercafes, but your cell phone will not work, so it can be left at home.