The Sinkhole is a natural...
The Sinkhole is a natural vertical shaft in the middle of a meadow. It is surrounded by a split-log fence to keep the tourists and wild horses and burros from falling in.
Never having talked with anyone who'd spent any time on the Rafael roads, we started our trip with a visit to the John Wesley Powell River History Museum in Green River, Utah. Actually, it was our first stop, but our second contact. I had already called the local office of the Bureau of Land Management in Price, Utah, and ordered the BLM's San Rafael Motorized Route Designations map (August 2006 edition), which proved to be invaluable in both preplanning and making our trip. The museum is well worth the time taken to tour its many exhibits honoring Powell's trip through the area in 1869 as leader of the first American expedition exploring the length of the Colorado River, including the Grand Canyon. Examples of the boats used for the expedition are on display as are many Indian artifacts from the area. You can also pick up self-guided driving-tour booklets and maps of the area in the gift shop. (If you need a motel room and restaurants during your San Rafael Swell stay, plan on using Green River as your headquarters - it's also the closest place to refuel.)
This scenic canyon narrows...
This scenic canyon narrows down into Buckhorn Wash just after the huge pictograph panel.
Stoke up, fuel up, and head up the hills to the west of Green River. The altitudes of the trails in the Swell range from about 4,500 feet to above 6,600 feet, so be sure to dress in layers during the summer. You'll be cold at night with a campfire being very welcome and probably running either the A/C or the heater during the day. It is a year-round playground, but for wheelers and quads, it is best traveled from late spring to early fall. Don't forget the bug spray. Some of the camping areas can be pretty irritating with gnats and no-see-ums.
This is the route to Castle...
This is the route to Castle Dale and Price via Buckhorn Wash from near the unimproved campground just north of Bottleneck Peak.
On I-70 west, just a few short miles west of Exit 149, you'll find a gate in the interstate's fence line (N 38, 55'/W 110, 25'). Watch for it carefully because there's no offramp, just a gate in the fence. If you come up to the rest area (restrooms, picnic benches, etc.), you've gone too far. Why the powers-that-be didn't put the gate at the rest area is beyond me. Anyway, if you missed the gate, you'll have to continue west until Exit 131. There is a gate on both sides of the highway, with an access culvert beneath the highway to let you go north or south from either lane. Just be sure to close the gate after you drive through.
 There are few year-round streams...  There are few year-round streams in the Swell. Most are drive-through fords, but this bridge at Lonetree Crossing keeps vehicles from disturbing Muddy Creek. |  Near the entrance to Goblin...  Near the entrance to Goblin Valley State Park, you'll find what we titled "Huey, Dewey, Louie, and Uncle Donald" (Huey's resting on his bill to the left). The official title is "Three Sisters." I like our title better! |  Although there are many unimproved...  Although there are many unimproved campgrounds spread around the San Rafael Swell, we elected to set up camp on a flat near Lonetree Crossing. The dogs found the many road apples from wild horses and burros very entertaining. |