Veering east from Coco's, we picked up the track toward Calamejue, an isolated fish camp long forgotten by schedules and deadlines. Passing an old hardrock mining camp from Baja's fleeting gold rush, we remembered an open-pit mineshaft, which Randy had almost backed into on a previous adventure. Our longing to explore its depths got the best of us. This time, our buddy Warn, 100 feet of cable, and a tow strap duct-taped to the end (don't try this at home) helped us explore the depths of the abyss.
Our next destination was the old Calamejue Canyon route, which occasionally serves as part of the Baja 1000 course. From a nondescript turnout, we headed south over several miles of high-speed whoop-de-doos. The cacti-covered hills converged around us and the canyon walls rose to near vertical. Green shrubs began to appear, and in the distance of a half-mile, the parched desert turned to a tropical marsh with lush vegetation covering the canyon floor. As with most desert oases, our Eden evaporated with the next bend in the canyon. With visions of Baja 1000 grandeur, we raced fairlead-to-taillight for the better part of 20 miles, emerging into the cacti forest of the Desengano Valley.
Missions, Three-Dollar Gas, And Baja Sunsets We avoided the paved route to Bahia de Los Angeles for as long as possible, eventually surrendering to a 5-mile stretch that took us to the turnout for Mission San Borja 20 miles to the south. San Borja was one of the more remote Spanish missions in its day and served as the stepping-off point for the El Camino Real, the original mule/foot route connecting Baja's mission system. Built by Jesuit padres in 1759, the mission was later turned over to the Franciscans and then Dominicans. Today, it remains one of the best-preserved structures of its type and is a true oasis in the desert. Palm, fig, and pomegranate orchards line the small valley, and a short hike up the canyon will reward you with a soak in a small hot spring (watch for the leeches). The same family has maintained the mission for three generations. The grandson Henry, who is 9, will give you a tour of the mission and the grounds. We always make sure to leave a monetary donation as well as bags of good used clothing. This year included a new bicycle.
Backtracking 20 miles through the Sierra de la Asamblea Mountains, thick stands of copalquin (elephant trees) lined the route to Bahia de Los Angeles. One of the larger bays along the Sea of Cortez, dozens of islands pepper the indigo water, and the area bay plays host to dozens of species of birds, crustaceans, fish, and whales. The town hasn't changed much in the last few decades. Power is still supplied by generator and regular phone service was not established until the late-'90s. It is, however, the last place to obtain fuel and supplies. One of the foremost rules of traveling Baja is this: If fuel is available, get it. We pulled into the local superstation, a converted delivery truck that housed several 55-gallon drums of petrol and a guy named Juan. Following a three-dollar-a-gallon fill-up, we restocked the coolers and sundries at the local mercado (market) and took in some local cuisine of tacos de pescado (fish tacos).
The pavement's terminus is at Bahia de Los Angeles, and we were glad to be back on the dirt, meandering our way south through the Cerro de Los Animas Mountains. With the fuel tanks, coolers, and bellies full, we searched for a quiet place to pitch the tents. Casting its last rays across large stands of Cordon cacti, the sun surrendered to darkness. Under the light of a billion stars, unmolested by any distant urban sprawl, coyotes howled in broken cadence as we reflected on our Baja addiction and swapped lies around the campfire.
Next month: Baja Engine Rebuild 101, endless sand dunes, gumbo quagmires, Franciscan missions, and the Lost Coast.
Baja Survival Guide And Requires Thorough Planning. When Heading Off On An Adventure To A Foreign country, detailed preparation isn't optional. Most third-world countries lack reliable services and fuel supplies, practice non-Western customs, and speak a different language. Charging off without your ducks in a row can mean the difference between having a great vacation and making costly mistakes, even to the point of writing letters to your mother from a foreign jail cell. We've experienced midnight interrogation rooms and lengthy border delays in Bolivia, corrupt federales in Argentina, elephant roadblocks in Namibia, and met folks who've waited several days for fuel in Baja. Foreign self-guided travel is not for the unprepared, or the ill-informed. Here, we've assembled a few travel tips for adventures south of the border.
Don't Be an Ugly American An ugly American? They come waving wads of greenbacks, whoop it up, talk too loud, treat the locals like dirt, and only know two words in Spanish: mas and cerveza. They enjoy the comforts of Mexican jails more often than the rest of us.
Guns And Drugs Leave them at home. The military checkpoints are looking for two things: guns and drugs. Baja federales drive Hummers, carry AK-47s, and have lots of time to search your gear. Get caught with guns or drugs (including bullets), and you won't be watching ESPN for a long, long time. Oh, and you'll probably never see your rig again.
Auto Insurance Mexico requires you to have insurance, period. You're a fool to travel without it. In the case of an accident, you're guilty until proven innocent. Without insurance, you're just guilty. A basic liability (about $9 per day) will usually keep you out of jail in a fender-bender. You can buy a daily policy at border crossings. If you're staying for more than two weeks, it's cheaper to buy an annual policy from one of the Baja travel clubs.
Baja Travel Clubs Vagabundos Del Mar and Discover Baja are two of the best. Both have long-standing reputations and are great sources for quality up-to-date information. They also sell insurance, books, and maps. For more information, contact: www.vagabundos.com or www.discoverbaja.com.
Reduce The Risk You've heard the many stories of midnight roadblocks, banditos, and corrupt federales. Travel tips: Don't travel alone and don't travel at night. If you must, trail in behind another vehicle at night. Remember: There's safety in numbers.
If it's illegal in the U.S., it's probably illegal in Mexico. And they don't care that you can't read the sign. Keep your nose clean and you should be OK.