The word is out. Mopar is selling JK Wrangler Rubicon Dana 44 complete axle assemblies, and they're a very good deal. For a total of approximately $3,000, both front and rear Rubicon Dana 44s that come complete with disc brakes, electric lockers, and 4.10 gears will be delivered to your home or dealer ready for installation. These Dana 44s are direct bolt-ins in JK Wranglers, so owners of X or Sahara trim levels can easily upgrade their front and rearends to the Rubicon level and will even be able to use their locking differentials at any speed, in two-wheel drive, four-wheel high, or four-wheel low range. This is something Rubicon owners can't do as they're limited to using their lockers in low range. Mopar/Jeep JK Rubicon Dana 44s are available from any Mopar/Jeep Performance dealer.

These axle assemblies will also work in any other vehicle you choose to install them in with some modification. We followed our friend Eric Maughan as he ordered Mopar JK Rubicon Dana 44 axle assemblies and proceeded to put them under his '91 YJ Wrangler. 4 Wheel Drive Hardware has everything needed for a successful axle swap, such as a Mopar wiring harness that has the correct electrical plugs needed for the electric lockers. While doing the swap, Eric decided to install an Atlas transfer case from Advance Adapters too. Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts built new front and rear CV driveshafts that work with the Rubicon axle assemblies. Follow along, and we'll show you how easy this swap is to perform.

In addition to offering greater protection from trail obstacles, heavy-duty front and rear bumpers can transform any 4x4 into a well-prepared trail rig. The addition of a front winch bumper, for example, provides stable tow points for vehicle-recovery maneuvers, and the addition of a winch helps promote safer trail excursions in general. A heavy-duty rear bumper is also a great aid. Stable tow points are achieved, and many umpers include extras such as a swing-away spare-tire mount, a Hi-Lift Jack mount, and cargo baskets to stow extra gear.

Lod Genuine Off Road Equipment produces a whole line of its heavy-duty front winch bumpers for '87-'06 Jeep Wrangler YJs and TJs and '07-'08 Wrangler JKs. LoD's Xpedition Series rear bumper/tire carrier is also available for these Jeep models. The bumpers feature tapered ends, are manufactured from 3/16-inch-thick steel, and are powdercoated black. Two D-ring mounts are included at both the front and rear, and the rear also incorporates a 2-inch receiver hitch.

The Lod front heavy-duty bumper is offered in a "shorty" 44-inch width for increased side-to-side obstacle clearance, and a standard 54-inch width is also available. The rear Xpedition Series bumper/tire carrier is 58 inches wide and secures to the frame using 10 mounting points. The Xpedition Series bumper/tire carrier includes a Hi-Lift Jack mount, two jerrycan mounts, and a steel cargo basket to hold a cooler or other trail gear. Frame tie-in brackets are also available to increase strength, and an adjustable tire mount to accommodate various wheel-backspacing needs is included.

We carried out the installation of the LoD front and rear bumpers on an '05 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited. The installation is easily completed in the driveway or on the garage floor using common handtools (drilling is required for mounting the rear bumper), however, you'll likely require a helping hand in lifting the bumpers into place during mounting. Once mounted to the vehicle, the bumpers provided a great look and functionality not afforded in the vehicle's stock form. We'll also be much better prepared for future trail rides, as all of the necessary safety and repair items are within an easy reach and ready to use.

STaK 4x4's Dana 300 Replace-A-Case has put the Dana 300 transfer case in the same class as GM's 350 small-block V8, where used donor parts such the 350's block or the 300's housing are no longer required for assembly. With a diminishing amount of usable Dana 300 donor housings available in wrecking yards these days (the Dana 300 hasn't been used in a production vehicle since 1986), the Dana 300 Replace-A-Case effectively extends the life of this stout geardriven transfer case that has dutifully served in multiple makes of 4x4s during its multiple-year span of production.

The Dana 300 Replace-A-Case consists of two case halves that are manufactured from cast 356 alloy aluminum and then hardened to a T6 condition. Each case half offers thick walls to hold up against case deflection under hard acceleration. In order to maintain tight tolerances throughout the assembly, the profiles of the case halves and all bearing locations are fully CNC-machined to exacting specifications. The case halves are joined using 3/8-16 stainless steel socket-head cap screws to ensure positive attachment and further increase the unit's strength.

In addition to bringing more overall strength to the Dana 300, the STaK 4x4 Replace-A-Case is impressively versatile. Its design allows it to be used as a direct replacement for less desirable chaindriven transfer cases such as the NP231 in Jeep YJs and TJs. This is achieved without using the common method of mounting the Dana 300 upside down to turn it into a driver-side drop transfer case. Several clocking positions are already in place on the Replace-A-Case to suit the mounting needs of many applications, and many different input splines are also available. When used to replace an NP231 transfer case in Jeep TJs and YJs, the Dana 300 adds approximately 9-1/2 inches to rear-driveshaft length, which will effectively decrease the operating angle of the rear driveshaft in these short-wheelbase rigs. The Replace-A-Case accommodates the factory TJ and YJ speedometer-sending units, and STaK offers a TJ-style shifter that's designed to fit through the factory hole in the transmission tunnel as well. A universal shifter is available to suit other applications and can be modified as needed to meet most needs. STaK can also provide adapters to mate the Dana 300 to most GM, Ford, and Jeep applications.

As far as building a Dana 300 without a Dana 300? It can be done using the Replace-A-Case and all new heavy-duty aftermarket components like a 32-spline front-output shaft or a 32-spline rear-output shaft that uses a shorter tailhousing manufactured from billet aluminum (STaK offers these too). Also readily available for the Dana 300 are 4:1 Low gearsets as well as bearing rebuild kits. Of course, this isn't your only option. You can also assemble a Dana 300 using the Replace-A-Case and quality used components from an '81-'86 Dana 300 core. This will create a stout transfer-case assembly that can be upgraded over time as needs and funds dictate. Either way you slice it, new parts or old, the STaK 4x4 Replace-A-Case is an awesome upgrade to any Dana 300 transfer case and a great option for those eager to step up to a geardriven transfer case without the cost of purpose-built Low-geared units.

DANA 300 OVERVIEW
The Dana 300 transfer case uses all helically cut gears and a cast-iron case. It benefits from a compact size and its versatility in being able to mate up to a variety of transmissions. Available in '80-'86 Jeep CJ-5s and CJ-7s, two versions of the Dana 300 were produced: a reputedly stronger short version and a long version. The reasoning for the two versions is said to be due to the varying wheelbases of the CJ-5 and CJ-7, with the weak link in the long version found along the mainshaft. Both offer a 2.62:1 Low-gear ratio and use an aluminum tailhousing, a 1-1/4-inch intermediate shaft, and 23-spline input shaft. There's also a Scout Dana 300 that was used in the '80 International Scout II. A few differences exist between the Jeep and Scout models, but most importantly, they do not share the same bolt pattern. The Jeep 300 uses a round six-bolt pattern. The Scout 300 uses a four-bolt "Texas" pattern that is essentially the same pattern as the five-bolt Dana 20, making it an excellent swap candidate for early-CJ owners seeking a lower gear ratio.

Regardless of what brand engine, displacement size, number of cylinders, or rated horsepower that our rigs have in them, if you are like the 4WD&SU staff, we're constantly on the hunt for more power and performance from our engines. With this said, please join us in viewing some of today's latest and greatest engine performance products - and yes, some of these items are full engine conversions because sometimes a new engine or a stroker motor kit may be the only way to go.

Keep in mind that increased engine performance may be the result of a new radiator, a larger motor and the necessary hardware to install it, new wiring harnesses, and even a transfer case to deliver your newfound power to the vehicle's wheels. All of these components are equally important to each other, and we must always remember this synergy amongst the parts.

FLEX-A-LITE DUAL ELECTRIC FAN KIT
It is important to remember that when the engine size increases, so do the cooling requirements. This requirement is especially important if a larger engine is being placed in a smaller cavity; there needs to be sufficient cooling due to the restrictive space. These two huge 15-inch electric fans move an impressive 5,500 cubic feet of air per second and are encased in a glass-reinforced, nylon mold-injected shroud.

The benefits of having electric fans while off-roading are monumental. Quicker warm-up and cool-down times, increased fuel economy, and a cooler running engine are just a few of the benefits. Horsepower gains have also been noted to exceed 17-plus while rear-wheel torque increases 20-plus lb-ft.

For more information, contact:
Flex-a-lite
(253) 922-2700
www.flex-a-lite.com

FORD RACING PARTS 520 CID V8 CRATE MOTOR
Ford Racing Parts is proud to offer its '04 520 cid V8 crate motor, which puts out a staggering 625 hp right out of the crate. The 520 cid V8 contains nothing but the best that Ford Racing Parts has to offer. With a 9.8:1 compression ratio, custom valves, custom ground crankshaft, and custom-polished Ford Racing valve covers, every item on this powerplant is built with race precision and craftsmanship for durability and the ultimate in performance.

Harnessing all of that power along with the 600 lb-ft of torque that is produced will prove to be a challenge for any fabricator, but it will definitely be worth the time, effort, and money spent.

For more information, contact:
Ford Racing Parts
(800) FORD-788
www.fordracingparts.com

NOVAK GM GEN III ENGINE MOUNTS
Installing a Gen III GM engine into a Jeep TJ/LJ just got a lot easier with Novak's engine-mount kit. Each kit contains high-strength steel mounts that have been seamlessly welded to ensure the utmost strength. The 3/16-inch-thick steel mounts have not been drilled to allow for precise engine placement inside the bay. Gusseted frame brackets are designed to be welded to the inner framerails, allowing for added strength, while high-grade urethane isolators are gauged to provide ideal balance of isolation and firmness. Large 5/8-inch bolts and all associated hardware are included in each kit.

For more information, contact:
Novak Conversions
(805) 584-8635
www.novak-adapt.com

GEN-RIGHT SC FUEL TANK
More often than not, when swapping one motor for another, there are numerous other parts that must also be replaced. A fuel pump and fuel tank are just a couple of these items due to the high-pressure and high-volume fuel pump requirements that V8 engines have. Created especially for Jeep TJ and LJ models, each tank is made from 1/8-inch-thick aluminum alloy and is assembled in a foam-lined, matching heavy-duty 3/16-inch-thick skidplate with straps and factory Mopar rollover valves. For more information, contact:
Gen-Right Off Road
(805) 584-8635
www.genright.com

PAINLESS PERFORMANCE WIRING GM HARNESS
One of the most daunting tasks associated with swapping engines is the rewiring and integration of the new engine harness with the remaining wiring of the transplant vehicle. Painless Performance's newest wiring harness makes the integration of a GM EFI engine into any vehicle a breeze. This factory-style replacement harness comes complete with factory connectors and terminals and is color-coded to plug directly into the factory ECM.

Designed to mount the ECM on either the firewall, underneath the dash, or in a kick panel, this harness will take the stress out of this portion of your project.For more information, contact:

Painless Performance
(817) 244-6212
www.painlessperformance.com

ATLAS II AND ATLAS 4SP TRANSFER CASES
Now that you've gone through the engine swap on your rig, the next step is to apply that newfound power to the wheels. Enter an Atlas II or Atlas 4SP transfer case. These bulletproof transfer cases are available in a variety of configurations and gear ratios.

The Atlas II and the Atlas 4SP cases are both cast of 356-T6 heat-treated aluminum alloy and loaded with hardened 8620 shafts and helical-cut gears. Their ease of installation only makes them more attractive of a project.

For more information, contact:
Advance Adapters
(800) 350-2223
www.advanceadapters.com

HOWE RACING CUSTOM RADIATORS
As you may have already found out, installing a specific motor in a vehicle that it is not supposed to be installed in may require some level of custom components. Typically a radiator is one such item, given the configuration of the engine bay and required cooling capacities. Howe Racing offers custom-designed radiators for just this purpose. Upon receiving your design and specifications for the unit, a U.S.-made aluminum radiator core is selected and fabricated to allow for maximum heat transfer and dissipation.

Each radiator is typically more than 7 percent cooler than a flux-bonded aluminum core unit and more than 15 percent cooler than one of copper and brass. Each radiator features a cast or billet filler neck and uniform height core flanges. They also feature crimped and welded tanks and are TIG-welded by hand to ensure exceptional quality and appearance. Each radiator is pressure tested and guaranteed against manufacturing defects.

For more information, contact:
Howe Racing
(888) 484-3946
www.howeracing.com

TURN KEY ENGINE SUPPLY LS7 V8 CONVERSION PACKAGE
Like its name implies, Turn Key Engine Supply's LS7 V8 conversion kit contains everything needed to install this 540hp powerhouse to your favorite off-road rig. Each kit contains the legendary GM LS7 7.0L V8 that has been engineered to incorporate an 8-quart dry-sump oiling system similar to the system found on the C6.R Corvette race team and balanced and blueprinted internal components. Additional items that are included with the kit are a marine-grade wiring harness, adapter plate and hardware, Delphi ECM, and all associated pumps and belts.

Also included with the kit are a complete AN-fitted fuel system which incorporates a fuel-pressure regulator, prefilter, fitted fuel rails, and all fittings.

For more information, contact:
Turn Key Engine Supply
(760) 941-2741
www.turnkeyenginesupply.com

BURNSVILLE OFF ROAD 5.7L AND 6.1L DODGE HEMI V8 CONVERSION PACKAGES
Burnsville Off Road announces the introduction of 5.7L and 6.1L Dodge Hemi V8 conversion kits for the '07 JK Wrangler. The basic conversion kit consists of an aluminum radiator, motor mounts, wiring harness, and an ECM programmed specifically for the JK. Other components are available upon request.

In addition to selling the conversion kit, Burnsville Off Road also offers turnkey installations at its facility in Burnsville, Minnesota. Best of all, the factory speedometer and gauges function normally with the conversion. In the event that the 5.7L and 6.1L engines don't provide enough power, V10 Viper engines are available as well.

For more information, contact:
Burnsville Off Road
(952) 890-3990
www.burnsvilleoffroad.com

AMERICAN EXPEDITION VEHICLES 5.7L DODGE HEMI V8 CONVERSION PACKAGE
With the growing popularity of the Dodge Hemi powerplants, AEV has started offering its 5.7L Dodge Hemi V8 conversion kits for all Jeep TJ Wranglers. Included with each kit are a new 5.7L Hemi crate engine and all of the accompanying components required to complete the conversion with both ease and quickness.

For more information, contact:
American Expedition Vehicles
(406) 251-2100
www.aev-conversions.com

CUSTOM ALUMINUM RADIATOR'S WRANGLER REPLACEMENT KIT
Custom Aluminum Radiator's Jeep Wrangler replacement radiator and electric-fan kit increases engine cooling and heating drastically. Consisting of a 1-3/8-inch aluminum core radiator and 16-inch Spal high-performance electric fan, CNC brackets, and all hardware, the kit is a direct replacement for any Jeep Wrangler CJ/TJ.

For a truly bolt-on replacement to the OE unit, the radiator contains the factory mounting locations while the 2360 CFM electric fan mounts easily to fit the fan shroud and mounting location.

For more information, contact:
Custom Aluminum Radiators
(928) 681-6716
www.alumrad.com

JB CNVERSIONS LOMAX 205 TRANSFER-CASE CONVERSION
JB Conversions LoMax 205 transfer-case conversion is the perfect mate to a new engine. Based upon the popular New Process 205 transfer case, the LoMax 205 conversion contains a nodular iron casting that has been machined to the exact tolerances taken from the original New Process case drawings. This new case features additional internal ribbing and an increased thickness of the case wall. Internally, the conversion features a stronger-than-original 3:1 gearset which contains wider-than-stock teeth, all while retaining the stock overall case dimensions.

For more information, contact:
JB Conversions
(337) 625-2379
www.jbconversions.com

AIRFORCE ONE PERFORMANCE JEEP JK AIR-INTAKE SYSTEM
Breathing just got a lot easier for the '07-'08 Jeep JK Wrangler thanks to Airforce One Performance's high-performance air-intake kit. Each kit features a powdercoated heat shield and a custom stainless steel air-intake tube that attaches to a high-performance conical-shaped Power Stack air filter. The performance benefits of this system are increased horsepower, less restriction on air intake, increased airflow, and greater torque output.

For more information, contact:
Airforce One Performance
(661) 250-8417
www.airforceoneperformance.com

AVENGER 3.8L JEEP JK SUPERCHARGER
Avenger's new 3.8L supercharger system is packed with horsepower. Famous for its Jeep-only supercharger kits, the Avenger 3.8L system contains a purpose-built supercharger, intercooler, and all of the necessary hardware for a seamless install. With horsepower increases well above 100-plus hp and a 50-percent increase in torque, things could get interesting fast when installed under the hood of your JK.

For more information, contact:
Avenger Superchargers
(719) 594-4766
www.avengersuperchargers.com

HESCO 4.5L JEEP STROKER MOTOR KIT
The HESCO 4.5L stroker motor kit transforms your run-of-the-mill 4.0L motor into a low-end and mid-end torque monster. The kit is available in two bore-over sizes and includes a stroker crankshaft, forged pistons, high-performance connecting rods with ARP rod bolts, new piston rings, timing chain and gearset, new camshaft and lifters, and new main bearings and rod bearings.

All of the components in the kit are prebalanced, and the pistons are pressed on the connecting rods, leaving only the boring and honing of the block as the only machine work necessary.

For more information, contact:
HESCO
(205) 251-1472
www.hesco.us

HOWELL ENGINE DEVELOPMENTS UNIVERSAL WIRING HARNESS
If you're thinking of dropping that Corvette powerplant into your CJ or early-model Bronco, you might think about getting your hands on one of Howell's universal design wiring harnesses. The harnesses are available in two configurations: one for MAF systems (production years 1985-1989) and one for speed-density systems (production years 1990-1992). Each of the harnesses are 36 inches in length from the rear of the engine to the ECM connectors to allow for adequate slack in the wiring. Included in the harness are the necessary relays, ECS module wiring, injector branches, and emissions wiring.

For more information, contact:
Howell Engine Developments
(810) 765-5100
www.howellefi.com

505 PERFORMANCE 4.7L HP FORGED STROKER KIT
505 Performance's HP Forged Stroker kit has been assembled with only the highest-grade engine components. The 4.7L AMC kit includes Eagle rods, Ross Racing pistons, Total Seal gapless rings, Clevite rods and mains. Custom camshaft grinding is available, as are custom-cut pistons.

Each component in the kit is balanced for the optimum performance. The compression ratio is fully adjustable as well and can be ordered between 8.5:1 to 10.5:1. When all is said and done, the horsepower for the kit is 275-plus hp and 325 lb-ft of torque.

For more information, contact:
505 Performance
(505) 333-2600
www.505performance.com

UNICHIP PLUG N' PLAY JEEP 3.8L JK PERFORMANCE MODULE
The Unichip Plug n' Play performance computer module for the '07-'08 Jeep Wrangler JK 3.8L engine increases horsepower up to 27-plus hp and torque up to 26-plus lb-ft. Installed in minutes, the custom-designed wiring harness connects inline with the factory connectors for maximum performance.

Tested for over a decade, the Unichip is designed to take full advantage of the hidden power in your engine. Best of all, the modules will work with both stock and modified engines with factory or aftermarket air-intake systems.

For more information, contact:
Unichip
(866) UNICHIP
www.unichip.us

To recap from the first two installments of project Sami Supreme, our '86 Suzuki Samurai underwent a few major transformations including a Toyota dual t-case drivetrain swap, a completely new three-link suspension, and some serious tube work from top to bottom. one of the main goals for the project was to increase the tire size from the previous 35-inch Baja Claws to a slightly taller 37-inch tire. With the sami riding on the taller 37-inch Goodyear MT/RS, it was obvious on our first test run that the anemic 1.3-liter stock Samurai engine simply didn't have enough guts to leverage the larger tires on serious obstacles.

The preferred solution to any weak engine is to replace it with something larger, perhaps with a few more cylinders. after all, there is even a popular phrase for just such a dilemma that states, "there's no replacement for displacement." While swapping engines may look like the obvious fix, there are a few parameters that must be met, namely the budget. Another limiting factor is weight. the stock Samurai engine may be lacking in a true test of power. If you can throw a rooster tail uphill in the sand with 37-inch tires, you're doing oK. the new Wild Bore carburetor setup is phenomenal, providing a noticeable power increase. the horsepower department, but it also lacks in the weight department, weighing a mere 200 pounds complete. one of the initial goals for the project was to keep the rig as light as possible, so swapping in a heavy iron block V8, V6, or an even larger four-cylinder like a Toyota 22RE would not exactly be ideal.

A popular engine swap for Samurai owners has long been the 1.6L, 16-valve Suzuki engine found in Geo Trackers and Suzuki Sidekicks. this engine is essentially the same as the Samurai 1.3L, eight-valve engine but with slightly more displacement and twice as many valves, giving it about 20 more horsepower with no noticeable weight increase. the 16-valve Suzuki engine has also become a popular choice for its fuel injection, allowing it to perform flawlessly on extreme angles unlike the carbureted Samurai setup.

The sos/rock 4X Fabrication Toyota drivetrain adapters used in the first part of our project utilized a sidekick bellhousing, so swapping in a matching 16-valve Suzuki engine would be a no-brainer. Looking over everything involved, the 16-valve engine would be the perfect candidate for Sami Supreme with only one exception. The progress on the rig to this point has been pretty rough on the budget, so unfortunately the engine swap would have to wait for now.

After looking at some other less expensive upgrade options to squeeze more power from the "little engine that could," a few alternative fuel delivery systems were discovered. The stock Samurai carburetor is the notorious culprit behind most brokendown, left-for-dead Samis and is by far the single most complex, problematic component on the entire vehicle. replacing this menace with something that provides more power, better fuel mileage, and the ability to operate on extreme angles would be a blessing.

There are actually quite a few options available to replace the stock carburetor. The list includes: retrofitted, stock electronic fuel injection, Weber carburetors, Bosch mechanical fuel injection, Harley-Davidson carburetors, and the one that caught our eye, the Wild Bore sidedraft setup from Samuraiguy.com. the Wild Bore setup utilizes four synchronized Mikuni sidedraft carburetors attached directly to the engine head with a custom aluminum intake manifold. the four large-bore Mikuni carburetors used in the kit are from '88-'02 Suzuki GSX-R motorcycles and are readily available at local salvage yards and online auctions for only a couple hundred dollars. Samuraiguy.com also offers a complete kit with tuned, rejetted carburetors included for easy bolt-on power.

Designed to work on race bikes that are "laid down" the majority of the time, these Mikuni sidedraft carburetors will even run upside down, so extreme off-road angles are not an issue. Most carburetor applications have been replaced with fuel injection in this day and age, and these sophisticated yet simplistic carburetors were some of the last attempts at carbureted fuel delivery. Featuring a vacuum-slide action, these carburetors are very responsive, reliable, and tunable as you can imagine, considering their race-bike background.

Unlike all of the other fuel-delivery options available, the patented design of the Wild Bore kit completely replaces the restrictive stock intake manifold with a custom aluminum intake that feeds a healthy fuel/air mixture directly into the Sami's head. Samurais are well known for overheating issues, specifically due to factory intake manifold cooling restriction. the Wild Bore kit reroutes the factory cooling system with an included inline thermostat, entirely replacing the poorly designed factory cooling system with a setup that keeps it running cool, even on the hottest days idling on the trail.

Although the Wild Bore setup is not street or smog legal, Jeremy Walker, inventor of the Wild Bore kit, claims that it actually improves fuel mileage and even runs cleaner than the stock setup while making almost 50 percent more power. Best of all, the complete Wild Bore kit retails for only about $600, making it an affordable upgrade with our current budget. Another benefit is that these same Mikuni carburetors will also work on Sami Supreme's future 1.6L, 16-valve Suzuki engine. that's right. Samuraiguy.com also offers the Wild Bore kit for the big-block Suzuki motor, so we'll only have to upgrade to the 1.6 Wild Bore manifold when the future engine swap occurs. Replacing the electronic fuel injection of the 1.6L, 16-valve eliminates the horrific hassle of modifying the 16-valve EFI wiring harness to function in the Samurai. to top it all off, the sidedraft carburetors will ultimately make more power than the stock fuel injection.

In addition to the Wild Bore carburetor upgrade, this segment also features some new additions to the rig and finally some real Sami Supreme action from the trail. this project has been anything but easy, but it is clear just after the first few test runs that all of the hard work and invested time was well worth every penny and evening spent in the garage. Sami Supreme is almost complete, but as with any project of this caliber, "it's never done." stay tuned, as there just may be more to come on Project Sami Supreme!

One of the basic rules when trail-running is to try to keep the vehicle behind you in sight such that the slowest driver sets the pace for the group. This helps prevent a driver from getting lost or off course. However, there are plenty of times when rigs get out of sight, and it's handy to be able to communicate amongst drivers.

There is a wide range of radio communication available to allow you to converse with your fellow off-roaders. Whether you're in a street-legal 4WD, rock buggy, ATV, motorcycle, or snowmobile, we'll give you some idea as to what is available, along with the pros and cons of the various choices.

CB RADIO
For many years, the most popular trail radio has probably been the Citizens' Band (CB). These 40-channel radios operate in the 27-MHz frequency band. CB radios are relatively inexpensive starting at about $40 and going up to a few hundred dollars. With a 4-watt (12-watt single sideband) power limitation, CB range is typically effective for a few miles but can go tens of miles under the right weather and atmospheric conditions. No license is needed for CB radio use and Channel 4 is typically used by four-wheelers in many areas. CB communication can also be used for both private and business use.

CB radios are available in a mobile mount that uses an antenna mounted to your rig, or you can buy a handheld unit. Mobile versions work much better than the portable units due to typically higher output power and more efficient antenna setup. CB radio is common and is a good basic radio system for all-around use.

FRS RADIOS
Family Radio Service (FRS) has gotten very popular in recent years. These walkie-talkies are small units that you can clip in your rig or carry on your person. The radios operate in the 462- and 467-MHz UHF bands and have 14 channels available. These radios use FM (frequency modulation) which typically yields a cleaner sounding audio than the AM (amplitude modulation) used on CB radios. Within each channel, the user can also select a subaudible tone squelch code to filter out sound from other users on the same frequency.

There are a number of radios available with various options such as channel-scan capability, a battery meter, voice activation, and auto squelch. A very basic pair of FRS radios can be purchased for as little as $20.

Some of the radios use AA batteries, and some offer rechargeable batteries with the unit. Maximum output power is 0.5 watt, and operation does not require a license. Range is typically less than 2 miles and will vary widely due to the presence of large metal structures or hills.

FRS radios are commonly seen in use by families at shopping malls and amusement parks. Some businesses have also adopted FRS radios for short-distance communication.

GMRS RADIO
The General Mobile Radio Service (GMRS) band of communications is also located in the UHF band and was once the old Class A Citizens Radio Service. As such, it requires a license for use in this band. GMRS radios are available as walkie-talkies, mobile, or base station units.

It is similar to FRS (and shares some frequencies) in that it uses FM signals, but GMRS can transmit higher powers, thus is effective over longer distances as compared to FRS. Recent FRS/GMRS radios have come to market having 22 channels.

GPS RADIO COMBOS
Another twist on the FRS-type units are the Rino units offered by Garmin. These combine an FRS radio with a GPS receiver, all packed in a small handheld unit. There are several models available, including ones with color displays and the ability to store maps and a large number of recorded coordinates. An added benefit to these radios is the ability to display on the screen the location of others in your group using another Rino radio/GPS unit.

The Rino is a handy unit to have, even when riding an ATV, motorcycle, or snowmobile as it can be used for communication, tracking of your fellow riders, and for navigation purposes. Models are available with both FRS and GMRS frequency capability.

HAM RADIO
Beyond the more commonly used public radio systems described above, there are also available communications using ham radio frequencies. Licensing is required, but the possibilities of using portable, mobile, and base station setups opens up numerous possibilities with options to improve antenna configuration and power outputs.

With these setups you can configure systems that can communicate over the longest distances due to the allowed transmit powers. These are typically the highest-cost radios as well. Additionally, with access to repeater stations, a person may be able to communicate over hundreds of miles and possibly make use of a remote phone line with the help of ham club systems.

CELL PHONE
It is possible in some cases to use a cell phone for communication on the trail, but you're highly limited by proximity to a local cell site. Once you get in remote areas, the usefulness of a cell phone drops tremendously. Also, cell phones are not conducive for group communications.

With exception to a ham radio, a cell phone is probably your best bet when it comes to trying to contact emergency services, with limitation based on access to a cell tower signal.

WIRING/ANTENNA/TUNING
If you decide on a mobile form of communication that will be mounted in your vehicle, you'll also need to purchase an antenna, antenna cable, and any necessary mounting pieces or adapters to complete the installation.

Choice of antenna can be important to ensure maximum transmission/reception performance. Antennas perform in different ways, and some require a larger metal mount surface, or ground plane while others do not. For example, choice of antenna used on the roof of a truck may be different than that used on a utility rack of an ATV or on the cage of an open-top rig or rock buggy.

Once everything is installed, the antenna should be tuned to optimize the transmission and reception of the system. This is usually done using an SWR meter connected inline on the antenna cable and monitored while transmitting. A tubing slug on the antenna is adjusted to optimize transmission output. Optimum transmit/receive performance cannot be achieved without some basic system tuning on a mobile radio.

Whether poking fun at your buddy that's stuck or spotting another driver through a tricky spot, radio communications on the trail can be quite useful. There's a big array of possibilities on the market to satisfy most any off-road rider or driver application, and with portables you can take one with you on foot for hiking, hunting, or just exploring.

The Antirock sway bar from Currie Enterprises is an adjustable sway bar that helps balance a vehicle's suspension - even on the trail. It's nearly become a staple on Jeep TJ and JK Wrangler suspensions, and with the new XRock system from T&J Performance, the popular Antirock sway-bar system can now be installed on Jeep Cherokee and Comanche vehicles.

One of the benefits in using a Currie Antirock-style sway bar is that you can hit the trail without having to disconnect your sway-bar links and still have maximum suspension travel at your disposal. The axle is connected to Heim-joint links that lead to adjustable arms connected to a torsion-bar spring that twists as the suspension flexes. Since the sway bar remains connected, the vehicle's suspension remains more balanced for all off-road driving situations. This helps in steep, rutted hillclimbs by keeping some of the weight of the front end from shifting to the rear axle as gravity takes over, and the front suspension unloads. With some weight still over the front end, the tires are more likely to find traction, and the rear axle isn't burdened with the whole job of cresting the hill. The cringe factor in off-camber sections is also lessened as the Antirock will help keep the weight of the body from rolling to the low side. The Antirock sway bar is also adjustable, so that one or both sides of the suspension can be preloaded to modify ride characteristics - both on the trail and on the highway.

The XRock from T&J Performance is designed to fit '84-'01 Cherokees and '86-'92 Comanches with 3 to 4 inches of lift. Vehicles equipped with aftermarket bumpers may need to cut or grind the bumper-mounting area to obtain the necessary clearance for the XRock mounting bracket. The XRock mounting system is manufactured from chrome-moly tubing and high-strength steel tabs and offers a simple bolt-on installation with no welding required. The crew at T&J Performance Center in Orange, California, installed the Antirock on an '86 Comanche to show us the process.

FJ cruisers are everywhere. Yes, they can be found getting groceries and driving kids to after-school sports, but there's no shortage of 'Cruisers on the trail. From moab to Baja to tellico, FJ cruiser owners haven't held back in the dirt.

With body-on-frame construction, and a gutsy 4L V6, toyota provided FJ cruiser drivers a great platform for a real-world trail rig.

The FJ's suspension is as functional and rugged as the rest of the vehicle. The five-link (four links with a Panhard bar) rear suspension treats the occupants to a smooth coil-sprung ride, and the ifs delivers great handling on twisty high-speed terrain. So far, so good.

It's not all perfect. As competently as the ifs handles high-speed terrain, it is nonetheless shackled with pencil-thin tie rods and breakageprone cv boots and cv joints. Furthermore, there's not enough droop travel to allow the FJ to keep all four feet firmly planted when the rocks get bigger than a microwave oven. We're not saying that the ifs is junk. We're saying it has drawbacks.

Hardcore trail performance calls for a solid front axle. Properly executed, a swapped-in solid front axle gives gobs of articulation, keeping the rubber on the trail when the boulders get big. Noodle-sized ifs tie rods are replaced with heavy-wall tubing. Finally, two stout u-joints take the place of a quartet of CV boots and CV joints. Properly executed, a solid front axle is a simpler, stronger way to go.

The phrase "properly executed" bears repeating because there are several criteria for a successful solid- axle swap. The resulting trail rig should steer properly without "death wobble." The axle must be squared up under the rig so it drives down the road in a straight line. The axle needs to cycle through the range of suspension travel without hitting vital engine parts. It must cycle without binding u-joints or steering components. Do a solid-axle swap the right way and you've got a sought-after trail rig with newfound capability. Do a solid-axle swap the wrong way and you'll be the not-so-proud owner of a rolling disaster.

All-Pro off-road, in Hemet, California, is no stranger to properly executed solid-axle swaps or to traversing hardcore trails. All-Pro's rsum includes solid-axle swap kits for '86-'95 toyota pickups and 4runners as well as the taco' supreme solid-axle swap kit for the '96-'04 tacoma. Developing a solidaxle swap kit for the FJ cruiser was a natural progression. "We're the leader in the FJ cruiser aftermarket, and we're going to keep that leadership," states all-Pro's Jon Bundrant. "We know that not every FJ cruiser owner will end up swapping the ifs for a solid axle, but enthusiasts need to know that they can turn to us for that product if they want it. Our sas kit for the FJ cruiser is the first kit of its kind. We've done a solidaxle swap on another FJ cruiser, but that buildup was beyond the scope of what we would offer as a kit. We know of a couple of other FJ cruisers out there with swapped-in solid front axles, but no one has offered a solid-axle swap kit for the FJ cruiser until now."

We followed along, lenses and notepads in hand, as all-Pro's lead fabricator Mike Schoffstall and all-Pro ceo Jon Bundrant developed and installed the FJ sas kit using Jon's personal FJ as a lab rat. The kit is based on the highly successful taco' supreme sas kit but is not identical. Although the two kits do share some common parts, dimensions differ between these two vehicles.

The photos that follow capture the prototyping process. Snags were encountered and solutions were found. Stay tuned for the final version of the kit in our coverage of the '08 all-Pro Jamboree in Johnson valley.

If you've done much traveling on trails, it's a good bet that you've used a winch on your vehicle or been with someone else who's needed a little powered pull to get them out of a sticky situation. If you have a winch on your rig, you probably did a little research to figure out just which one was right for you and your wheeling style. you got it all mounted up and wired and prestretched that shiny new cable and coiled it back on the reel all nice and neat.

But usually time and use take their toll on that steel-braid cable, leaving it kinked, frayed, or simply a coiled mess on your winch spool. the braid doesn't like to flex smoothly and tends to retain a permanent twist or bend if pulled across something other than a straight line. Prudent handlers will certainly wear gloves while feeding the cable, as individual strings of the braid will break and leave sharp prongs waiting to cut your hand. the cable should be periodically checked for wear or fraying, and it should be repaired or replaced when no longer safe and reliable. When that time comes, you may want to consider swapping to a synthetic winch rope for a variety of reasons.

The foremost reason to switch might be for safety reasons. Should a tensioned steel-wire cable snap or a hook come loose, steel cable can snap wildly and may cause severe injury or vehicle damage unloading all that stored energy. a synthetic winch rope stretches very little, so if it breaks, it usually falls harmlessly to the ground. given that winch rope weight is about one quarter that of a steel cable, you can see the rope offers benefits in weight savings and safety.

Although winch rope can still be abraded or cut if dragged across a sharp edge, it is not prone to the same kinking problems as steel cable. When wound on the winch spool, the synthetic cable can compress and distort as it is wound tight, but pops back into shape when spooled free. It also does not easily conduct heat or electricity and is generally much easier to handle overall.

This type of winch rope was originally designed for the sea-going shipping industry. It is a braided synthetic or nylon cable that is extremely light and even floats on water. the cables come in several sizes or weight ratings. Usually a heavy steel hook is braided onto the end of the cable, or a steel eyelet may be used with a traditional winch hook.

Some wheelers may have concern about heat damage when using synthetic winch rope. Some planetary winch drums can get reasonably hot when operated in a powered output mode. However, this operation should not normally be sustained on a winch. as such, under practical winch operations, heat damage to a winch rope should not be a concern.

A winch can be a magical trail tool, extracting you from some ugly situations. However, we're dealing with a heavy vehicle and a highly loaded cable or rope. Safety should be your foremost priority and running synthetic winch rope on your winch can further increase that safety factor.

Picking up where we left off with the first part of our Sami Supreme project, a master plan was formulated to begin the radical transformation. Next, a toyota five-speed transmission was installed along with a dual-T-case setup, and it was time to address change in tire size. The 35-inch Baja Claws that were on the Sami from its initial buildup December 2003 issue) were great tires, as were the Eaton steel beadlock wheels they were mounted on, but there were many situations on the trail where a larger tire would have helped. The steel beadlock wheels are extremely tough wheels, but not the lightest, especially when you're trying to turn them with a 65hp engine, so a decision was made to upgrade both the wheels and tires to something taller and lighter.

After a bit of "wheelin' and dealin'," the Baja claws and Eatons were sold and replaced with an almost new set of 37x17 Goodyear MT/Rs. The MT/R is a great tire, suitable for a wide range of terrain, and is fairly lightweight compared to similar tires. The only problem was that the new 37-inch tires would not clear the firewall, so the front axle would have to be pushed forward a bit. This in turn would require modification to the front fenders, relocating the steering box, and the entire front suspension would have to be completely redesigned. A benefit of moving the axle forward would be a longer wheelbase. The current 87-inch wheelbase was simply too short to conquer extreme angles and hillclimbs, so a stretch in that department would really help.

With a bit of research and inquiries into popular wheelbase lengths, it was finally determined that 100-110 inches is optimal for a rig riding on 37-inch tires. Averaging this figure, it was decided that the new wheelbase should be 105 inches. With the wheelbase determined, it was time to figure out what to do with the suspension. While the Jeep Wrangler YJ leaf springs that had been on the sami for the past four years offered a lot of flex and stability, the setup was getting a little worn-out, and with all of the modifications to the wheelbase and chassis, it only seemed natural to step up to a link setup. There are a lot of different link setups out there to choose from, so the next crucial decision would be finding a setup that would work on the Sami while providing the ultimate in flex and drivability.

Looking further into linked-suspension setups and becoming thoroughly confused, a call was made to All-Pro Off-Road. Considering cost, clearance, usage, and everything else involved with the project, All-Pro recommended a three-link setup with a Panhard bar and air shocks. As luck would have it, the company had just developed its Taco' Supreme system, which is a weld-on front three-link (with Panhard bar) setup that could possibly be adapted to the samurai. Designed to retrofit a solid axle under the Toyota Tacoma, the Taco' Supreme kit includes all necessary frame and axle brackets as well as shock towers and heavy-duty adjustable links outfitted with large heim joints and extra-tough Johnny Joints.

With three-link kit in hand, it was evident that with some slight modifications, the kit would work on the ront of the Samurai and even push the front axle forward just the right amount to allow firewall clearance for the new 37-inch tires. The nice thing about using the All-Pro kit is that all of the engineering was already done by professionals, ensuring correct suspension geometry. Once the front suspension was set up, the rear could be duplicated using the same components to also provide correct geometry.

Starting up front, the all-Pro suspension was mocked-up and tacked into place. The front fenders were removed, and a new front bumper was fabricated to extend the framerails, providing a new mounting location for the steering box and winch. To complete the front suspension, a new, heavy-duty custom axlehousing was ordered from Diamond axles, making the setup extra-bulletproof. Finally, some tube fenders and a narrowed tube grille were fabricated to finish up the front, and it was time to tackle the rest of the rig.

Moving toward the back, the rear axle was repositioned to make the wheelbase 105 inches, and the bed was removed with a sawzall. Next, the rear framerails were narrowed to rovide clearance for the rear shocksand tires, and a new bumper was fabricated to tie it all together. A 12-gallon jaz fuel cell was chosen to replace the stock gas tank and integrated into the new rear end. Beneath the rear of the rig, a three-link setup (with Panhard bar) was designed, fabricated, and assembled to duplicate the same dimensions and geometry as the front all-Pro kit. Just like the front, a Diamond axle housing was used to finish up the rear-suspension setup.

After many hours of tube bending, notching, fitting, and welding, the rear of the sami supreme began to take shape with a rear extension added to the existing rollcage along with some new, integrated rock sliders. With the front and rear suspension tacked into place, everything was cycled and measured, using jacks and a forklift before permanently welding all frame, shock, and axle brackets into place.

Once the suspension and cage work received the final welds and gussets, it was time to address the details. Coast Driveline & gear built a custom set of driveshafts using standard, easily replaceable components. A new transmission tunnel and seat mount was fabbed up and tied into the frame. Next, a large bellypan skidplate was designed and constructed to protect the new drivetrain.

With everything buttoned up, the sami supreme was ready for some brief testing in the parking lot before turning it loose in its natural habitat. All of the steel was cleaned up and given a fresh coat of Krylon just hours before its debut at the 45th annual tierra Del sol Desert safari. Only a few short months after the project began, the sami supreme was tackling some serious terrain with ease at tds and wowing the crowds as it performed flawlessly the entire weekend. The story doesn't end here, however, as the next part of our sami supreme project will feature more trail testing and an upgrade in the horsepower department.

I'm sure we've all heard that something, whether it is an organization, team, or vehicle, is only as strong as its weakest link. every weekend, off-roaders learn this adage the hard way - when their weakest link fails, which is typically an axleshaft, differential, or ring-and-pinion set. These highly detailed yet very fragile components typically give way to heat, pressure, and continued use under extreme conditions.

Having your vehicle's gear ratio and drivetrain built to take into consideration your vehicle's tire size, power rating, and the terrain that you choose to off-road in, not only will allow your vehicle to perform better, but the reduction in wear to some of the other vehicle components will be diminished as well, not to mention that your trail breakdowns will be diminished greatly, too.

This month we showcase some of the most widely used products that address these issues and provide a more satisfying off-road experience and vehicle.

J.E. Reel Toyota Land Cruiser Drivelines
J.E. Reel's Toyota land Cruiser drivelines are custom-made to the exact specifications required for them to be bulletproof. each unit is made of stronger tube stock to resist bends and breaks while scraping along hard rocks. Given an increase in operating angle over the stock item and combined with 1350-series U-joints and a 2-1/2-inch-longer stroke in slip, each driveline will contribute to lower cost of repairs and miles of use.

For more information, contact:J.E. Reel drive line Specialists,(909) 629-9002www.reeldriveline.com.

Solid Axle industries heavy-duty Jeep TJ dana 44 Axle
Solid Axle industries' heavy-duty dana 44 replacement axle has been created to withstand bending and breaking and to alleviate those unnecessary repairs from a simple day of off-roading. Utilizing their own engineered dana 44 low pinion housing that features 1/2-inch-wall dom axletubes, each axle is assembled using only the highest quality components on the market, some of which include: ArB, Wilwood, precision Gear, Timken, and Goodridge.

Each axle is hand-assembled to ensure the best quality and workmanship and is inspected and numbered. each axle owner receives complete documentation about their axle, as well as 3 quarts of differential fluid for the initial commissioning of the unit.

For more information, contact:Solid Axle industries,(888) 290-2953www.solidaxle.com.

Stak 4x4 Replace-A-Case
STaK 4x4's replacement transfer case is available for all dana 300 transfer case applications. The replacement version offers any available gear ratio, heavy-duty 32-spline output shafts, a solid billet housing, and the ability to be configured in such a way that it turns the transfer case to a driver-side drop without having to turn the unit upside down.

For more information, contact:STAK 4x4,(915) 584-2400,www.stak4x4.com.

Atlas Cable Shifters For Jeep TJ
Specifically designed for the Jeep TJ, these high-quality, heavy-duty shifter cables and assembly allow for easy installation and trouble-free maintenance. Best of all, the assembly is able to fit neatly inside the factory center console with no interference to the driver's leg room.

For more information, contact:Advance Adapters(800) 350-2223,www.advanceadapters.com.

Tom Wood's "Super-Flex" Universal Joint
The unique offset design of this offset universal joint allows for 10 degrees of additional flexibility as opposed to other conventional universal joints. The "Super-Flex" universal joints are available to fit modi-fied driveshafts and many stock Jeep Wrangler and Grand Cherokee applications.

For more information, contact:Tom Wood's Custom drive Shafts,(801) 737-0757www.4xshaft.com.

OX Locker
By utilizing a positive-locking cable, this manual-locking differential unit, designed by a high-tech aerospace manufacturer, mates the two shafts of an axle together for maximum traction.

Features include a heavy-duty-machined differential cover and hardware to match. The system is available for dana 30, dana 35, dana 44, and dana 60 applications.

For more information, contact:randy's ring & pinion,(888) 296-3129,www.ringpinion.com.

Precision Gear Suzuki Samurai Ring-And-Pinion Set
Precision Gear's replacement ringand-pinion gearsets for all '85-'98 Suzuki Samurais allow for the replacement of the factory sets with sets containing a ratio of 5.29 to allow for larger tires without a compromise to the performance of the vehicle.

Each set is built for a seamless oe fit back into the factory pumpkin.

For more information, contact:Precision Gear(734) 946-0524,www.precisiongear.com.

Jeep TJ Dana 44 Powerlok Limited-Slip Differential
The dana 44 powerlok limitedslip differential unit provides positive engagement without the push/ pull characteristics of a conventional locking differential; the powerlok is suitable for use in front or rear applications.

The two-piece case construction with four pinion mate spider gears provides for more than double the strength and 75-percent more traction than conventional "open" differentials. each unit is fitted with all-steel clutch plates and unique torque-applying cross-shafts for positive action and long life.

For more information, contact:reider racing, (800) 517-1330,www.reiderracing.com.

Eaton Elocker
With the mere push of a button, the eaton elocker System electronically locks both axleshafts for uncompromised off-road traction. The system is compatible with other electronic-controlled systems such as brake-activated traction and stability control. The ability for the vehicle to operate in 2-hi, 4-hi, or 4-lo is retained. Additionally, the system is maintenance-free given that no lube additives are required.

For more information, contact:eaton Corporationwww.eaton.com.

Dynatrac Prorock 60 JK Series Axle
Dynatrac's new prorock 60 JK Series combines the strength, ground clearance, and durability of dynatrac's prorock axle assemblies with the safety systems and mounting bracketry necessary for a bolt-on installation into the new Jeep Wrangler JK. Additional performance enhancements include billet steel housing ends, choice of ring-and-pinion ratios, and large tapered roller axle bearings.

For more information, contact:dynatrac, (714) 596-4461,www.dynatrac.com.

Amsoil Severe Gear Synthetic Extreme Pressure Lubricant
Amsoil's 75W-110 severe-duty, synthetic gear lubricant is heat-resistant and has increased viscosity for towing, hauling, steep-hill driving, and off-road applications where high temperatures and frequent stop-andgo driving conditions are prevalent. Best of all, the intervals between maintenance of the gears is extended as well thanks to its synthetic properties.

For more information, contact:Amsoil, (800) 725-4645,www.amsoil.com.

TJM Pro Locker
The TJm pro locker differential has been made for all 60- to 80-series Toyota land Cruisers. each locker contains an air-operated piston-style actuator that eliminates oil buildup inside the air lines. in addition to the locker's actuation, the internal components of the unit are larger than stock, thereby allowing for increased durability and a stronger hosing.

Additional features of the locker are its reinforced external rubber air lines, pretensioned 10mm hemisphere bolts for optimum strength, heavy-duty mounting hardware, and an industry-first recessed led switch that shows when the locker is engaged and disengaged. A heavy-duty wiring harness is also included with the unit.

For more information, contact:TJm, (865) 670-1556,www.tjm.com.au.

Currie Enterprises Fabricated Differential Housing
Currie enterprises C-mac fabricated differential housing is built for extreme use. The housing is available in either 4130 chrome-moly or mild steel. The ideal housing for extreme rockcrawling, the laser-cut 3/16- inch-thick material is bent to shape, not welded out of pieces.

For more information, contact:Currie enterprises, (714) 528-6957,www.currieenterprises.com.

Powertrax Lock-Right Locker
The no-slip traction of the powertrax lock-right locker comes from a fully automatic locking rear unit. As the vehicle travels straight, both axles are locked together; when entering and exiting corners, the internal differentiation of the internal gearing is released. The locker is currently available in a number of applications for some of today's more popular trail vehicles, including Jeep Wranglers, Toyota land Cruisers, and Ford Broncos.

For more information, contact:powertrax, (864) 843-9231,www.powertrax.com.

Superior Axle Jeep JK dana 44 rear Chromemoly Shafts
Superior's all-new Jeep JK Wrangler dana 44 rear chrome-moly axleshafts have been fabricated to meet one goal: Absorb the shock load rather than break under it. A closer inspection of the shafts reveal that they're made from SAe4340 that has been induction-hardened, CNC-turned, and rotoflow spline-rolled for toughness. For additional performance on and off the road, the shafts' profiles have been adjusted.

For more information, contact:Superior Axle & Gear,(888) 522-2953,www.superioraxle.com.

ARB Air Locker Locking Differential
ARB Air lockers are synonymous with the whole notion of Jeeping. easily known throughout the off-road world as being one of the finest airactivated locking differentials on the market, these differentials provide the ultimate in traction by injecting compressed air into the differential, which then locks the gears in place.

Installed on your daily driver, the system goes unnoticed. however, at the push of a button, the system can be engaged and then disengaged. Kits are available for virtually any Jeep, land Cruiser, or other trail rig you can imagine.

For more information, contact:ARB 4x4 Accessories,866) 293-9078, www.arbusa.com.

Full Spider Rock Guard Differential Cover
The name should tell you a little something about this item. Designed for some of today's more popular trail rigs, the Full Spider rock Guard rear differential cover is fabricated from .500-inch-thick CNC plasma-cut flange with attached .625-inch-round cold-rolled steel legs. The Full Spider will protect your ring-and-pinion set from any rocks or stumps you may encounter.

Installation is a snap since each Full Spider cover contains CNC-machined, counter-bored bolt holes. The phosphate-primed and powdercoated durable black hammer-tone finish is able to withstand whatever is put in its path without chipping or cracking and is still able to look good for the ride home.

For more information, contact:purple Cranium products,(313) 581-0032,www.purplecranium.com.

West Coast differentials installation Kits
When replacing either a front or rear differential, it is important to have a high-quality kit consisting of the appropriate seals, shims, and bearings.

West Coast differential offers kits specifically for this purpose for many popular makes and models of trucks. included in each installation kit are American-made Timken bearings, pinion seals, pinion shims, a pinion nut, crush sleeve, gear-marking compound and brush, loctite compound, silicone gaskets, and instructions. All components are manufactured from the highest-quality components.

For more information, contact:West Coast differentials,(800) 510-0950,www.differentials.com.

Detroit Locker Nospin Differential
Detroit locker's NoSpin differential is considered to be one of the most rugged positive-locking units available for axles ranging from 3,000- to 70,000-pound capacities. The fully automatic positive-locking traction differential maximizes traction by delivering 100 percent of the torque and power to both drive wheels.

A speed-sensitive automatic locking mechanism senses the various terrain and any slippage and compensates by locking the differential in place.

For more information, contact:eaton, (800) 328-3850,www.eaton.com.

Dana Spicer Trac-lok differential
Dana Spicer Trac-lok differential utilizes the traction of both wheels to create increased traction control in adverse driving conditions. By employing a clutch plate and disc arrangement, the Trac-lok is able to continually transfer as much torque as possible without compromising the handling characteristics of the vehicle. The system is available for all Jeep models, including the liberty, Wrangler, and Grand Cherokee.

For more information, contact:dana Corporation,www.dana.com.

Electrics and autos have gone hand in hand for decades, and the infusion of electrical components into new 4WDs is increasing daily. Whether you may be adding a new accessory or simply having to troubleshoot or repair an electrical problem, some basic knowledge of electrical theory and practice can be handy.

Most vehicles we drive are equipped with, and operated from, a 12-volt battery. Along with the alternator, this source provides all the electrical energy needed on our vehicle. The battery is used for starting purposes and can supply electrical power when the engine is not running. Once the engine has been started, the alternator can be actuated by the voltage regulator to supply the electrical needs of the vehicle and recharge the battery as needed.

There are two basic properties we deal with when discussing electrical systems: voltage and current. Voltage (volts) is the electrical potential and can be analogous to the water pressure in a tank. The greater the voltage, the more energy we can typically supply. Thus, a fully charged battery or properly operating alternator will provide brighter lights than will a lesser electrical source. Current (amps) is a measure of electrical flow through a conductor and can be compared to water flow in a pipe. Increased flow capability means that greater energy is available at the far end of our wiring path. As an example, this becomes especially important when trying to get that last ounce of winch pull when you're stuck in the mud.

An electrical circuit consists of a complete loop or path. That is to say that in an operating circuit, current flows from the positive side of the battery to the device being powered and then back to the negative side of the battery. If this path is interrupted at any point, the circuit is broken and the device will not function.

This brings up two points concerning how electrical circuits are wired. First, note that a switch can be placed inline to engage or disconnect the device of interest. Such a switch is generally placed on the positive wire leading to the device such that the downstream wiring is left unenergized when the switch is off. Second, since the same current flows around the entire loop, both positive power wires and ground wires must be sized to accommodate the current draw of the device. If a single wire is used to connect several devices to ground, then the wire must be of sufficient size to support the total current flow of the three devices. On most vehicles, the frame and body are tied to battery ground and serve as a large return ground path for many electrical devices.

As current flows through a wire, it is subjected to a slight resistance in the wire. This resistance causes some voltage loss, or drop, as the current travels through it to the end where your electrical device resides. If you use too small a wire, the voltage drop across the wire will be significant, and the voltage available at our device will be somewhat less than our full battery voltage. Performance of that device can suffer.

Wire size should be chosen based on the current draw of the device in question. The table on page 66 shows the American wire gauge (AWG) sizes recommended for various current load requirements. These sizes are valid for runs up to about 15 feet. For longer runs, it is best to upgrade to a larger (lower gauge number) wire. If in doubt, always go with the larger wire to ensure you have plenty of current capacity and to minimize voltage drop over the length of the wire.

Relays
Whenever high-power electrical devices are added, they need large wires to carry the high-current loads to the device. In such a case, it's best to minimize the length of wire run if possible. This is where a relay comes into play. A relay might be more correctly called a "relay switch" because a relay is a switch that is triggered by another switch. The relay can be placed in line between the battery and the device, connecting the two via heavy-gauge wire and minimizing the length of the wire run. The relay is triggered remotely by another switch using light-gauge wire between the remote switch and the relay.

Two good examples of the use of relays (or solenoids) are the solenoid on the starter motor and the solenoids used to actuate a winch motor. In both cases, the relay or solenoid is used to switch large current loads remotely. This setup allows you to engage the starter motor from the ignition switch or command the winch motor remotely without having to route the heavy power cables to the switch location.

Once you understand the basic function of a relay, they are fairly simple to use and wire when adding high-power accessories. As shown in the above diagram, there are two terminals connected to the relay coil: one to the control switch (85) and one to ground (86). The other two relay terminals are simply wired inline to switch the current flow to your device. When 12 volts (battery and ground) is applied to the relay coil, an electromagnetic switch connects the two high-power contacts and allows current to flow to the device under control.

This figure illustrates a typical wiring diagram for a common Bosch-style relay. The switched 12V supply at terminal #85 energizes the relay coil and connects terminal #30 to terminal #87.

Fusing
Whenever an electrical device is added to your vehicle it's good practice to add a protective fuse to the positive power line. Many accessories often come with the proper inline fuse included. If this is the case, you can simply wire the device to your battery or other source of 12V power. Other electrical components, such as lighting, may require you to add your own fusing.

Fuses are chosen such that their rating exceeds the expected current draw of the device (by at least 20 to 30 percent), but with a rating that is below the maximum current rating for the wire size you are using. If the manufacturer does not provide the current draw for the device, we can calculate it from the specified power consumption using this formula:

Current (amps) = Power (watts) 12 volts

For instance, a 100-watt light would draw 8.3 amps, according to this formula. If we add two lights on one circuit, our total is 16.6 amps. At minimum, we should choose a wire size to support a 20-amp current flow and fuse our power line with a 20-amp fuse.

Connections
The auto environment is a harsh one. Temperature extremes are wide, and vibration and aging can also contribute to possible electrical problems. It pays to make electrical connections carefully and protect them from rubbing on metal edges and flopping around. Simple bundling with tie-wraps can help increase the reliability of your wiring. Clean, organized routing will also help keep your wiring decipherable and make any future troubleshooting easier.

A common cause of electrical problems associated with added electronics or accessories can be traced to poor connections. Even using the finest equipment and materials won't provide you with a successful install if you make unreliable wiring connections and fail to adequately protect them.

Properly soldering wires provides the most secure connection when wiring auto electrics, but quality crimp connections can also provide reliable joints that can withstand heat, cold, vibration, and moisture. Any joined wire should be carefully stripped and attached to the crimp connector with the proper crimping tool for best results.

Exposed conductors should be covered with insulation. Shrinkwrap tubing is the best solution and often the toughest covering. Electrical tape can be used, but ensure that it cannot unwrap over time. Thoughtful routing of wiring will help keep the outer insulation from abrading and rubbing on metal surfaces. Grommets should be used where wiring is fed through metal panels to further protect from chafing and shorts.

Wire Size (AWG)	Current Capacity (amps)
20	5
18	8
16	12
14	18
12	24
10	40

You never forget your first truck. I've still got mine. I purchased my '81 Toyota 4x4 pickup over 10 years ago, and it's been growing on me like a fungus ever since. The association of the name "Toyota" with the term "reliability" is usually a hand-in-glove fit. This particular truck missed the boat. To those who say, "you can't break a Toyota with a stone," I counter: you can fry the engine with a clogged radiator, you can have an L-45 transmission shaft fail when you least expect it, and you can have a rear axleshaft snap during street driving. The clogged radiator was my fault, so I have to own that, but caring for this truck has shown me that when you paint a picture with broad strokes, you're bound to miss a few nooks and crannies.

As of this writing, the Phoenix Project has been sitting with a dead engine since late '03. Why resurrect this thing? The reasons are part sentiment and part practical: I've grown attached to it, I already own it, and it's still got a lot of untapped potential.

When the Phoenix Project finally rises from its current bed of ashes, I envision a truck that's much more powerful than before, more comfortable to drive than in the past, and will beat the terrain beneath instead of the occupants inside. Let's get started.

Over the past 29 years, Toyota trucks and 4Runners have become some of the most popular trail rigs around. Though entirely capable in stock form, the Toyota aftermarket has developed scads of upgrade parts for these long-lasting 4x4s. The Toyota 4x4s covered in this article were produced from 1979-1995 and include first- and second-generation 4Runners and fourth-, fifth-, and sixth-generation pickups. Each generation represents a different body style. The year 1985 marked the last year of the solid front axle and the first year of EFI. This makes '85 EFI-equipped Pickups and 4Runners a key year for those looking to purchase a fixer-upper trail rig. Expect to pay a little more for this much sought-after year but consider that you'll get more versatility and power in as-purchased form.

Engine
With five different engines under its belt from '79-'95, Toyota trucks and 4Runners definitely improved with age. The early 20R and 22R engines made less than 100 hp, but the later-model 22RE EFI engine made about 115 hp. The 22RTE Turbo produced about 135 hp and the V6 made 150 hp, making it a massive improvement to this historically under-powered vehicle. The 20R and 22R engines are carbureted. The carburetor-equipped 20R was only used for the first couple years until replaced by the carb-fed 22R, which earned a spot under the hood until 1988. Some truck and 4Runner models received the 22RE starting in 1985, and the 22RTE Turbo engine was also included in the lineup in '86 and '87. The 22RE was used through 1995 as the base-model engine alongside the optional 3VZE V6.

If you're seeking V8 power from a four-cylinder, then upgrading performance on the 20R and 22R engines can be an expensive process. However, if you simply want increased reliability and a slight hop-up in horsepower and torque, you may be able to build your Toyota engine to perform to your expectations. Ensuring that the engine is in good running condition should be your first step, and it can be followed by installing a high-flowing air filter. Many will go with a set of headers, a high-flow catalytic converter, and a higher-flowing, larger diameter exhaust (the stock exhaust is small and constrictive) after this. A new cam will further benefit the open exhaust and headers and all told can offer an additional 20 horsepower. Cam changes in duration and lift vary to how each vehicle is set up in regards to gearing, tire size, and what engine enhancements are already in place. A new cap and rotor and plug wires can also re-awaken a tired stock engine, and a heavy-duty aluminum radiator will greatly aid cooling. You can also elect to invest your money in transfer case and axle gearing, which will allow the little four-cylinder to idle its way over obstacles.

If big horsepower is your goal, then you'll likely want to consider swapping out your 20R or 22R for a V6 or V8 powerplant. A lot of parts - actually everything you need - can be purchased to complete an engine swap; including motor mounts, modified oil pan (for front diff clearance), headers, and drivetrain adapters. The 3.4L V6 engine used in Toyota Tacoma pickups makes a great swap, and Off Road Solutions has a kit to swap this engine into '79-'95 models. For those who want to stay away from a complex conversion, companies such as LC Engineering and DOA Racing Engines offer high-performance 22R and 22RE engines custom-built to each application.

Transfer Case
From 1979 to 1995, several varieties of Toyota transfer cases were used. Most of the cases were geardriven, though two chaindriven units were also used. Geared cases used a 2.28:1 low-gear ratio but used two differently splined inputs (21-spline and 23-spline) depending on the model year it was installed. The 23-spline input in the geardriven case was used behind the 22RTE Turbo four-cylinder and can be interchanged with the 21-spline input in any geardriven case. The 23-spline input will hold up to higher horsepower and is ideal for V6- and V8-converted Toyotas. Chaindrive cases used a 2.57:1 low-gear ratio and came with 23- and 26-spline inputs depending on the year. The later-model chaindriven cases were paired with the V6 engine and can be identified by its five bolts used to secure the rear cover. The rear cover on geardriven cases is secured with seven bolts. Toyota transfer cases used both top-shift and forward-shift configurations. Most cases are forward-shift but top-shift is more desirable for projects and modifying. Marlin Crawler offers a kit to convert forward-shift cases to a top-shift.

Low gears are about the easiest upgrade to increasing a vehicle's capability. A number of manufacturers offer low transfer case gears. Advance Adapters offers its Trail Tamer gears in 2.06:1, 4.7:1, and 5.0:1 ratios. The gearing in a stock- or low-geared transfer case can be further reduced by pairing it with a gear-reduction housing, or "crawl box," that bolts between the transmission and the T-case. The crawl box will hold one set of T-case gears and the stock T-case will hold a second set of gears. Together the gears combine to create a multitude of available gear ratios that culminate to a very respectable crawl ratio. A number of aftermarket manufacturers offer crawl boxes and complete dual-transfer case setups, including Marlin Crawler and Inchworm Gear. You can also assemble your own double T-case using an adapter plate from Inchworm Gear, Advance Adapters, or Marlin Crawler, and the front housing from a spare Toyota T-case. You'll likely still want a low-gear set for the rear case to increase the low gearing possibilities.

Another transfer case upgrade that should be included with a dual-case setup is a heavy-duty transfer case crossmember. A twin stick shifter is also a helpful transfer case upgrade. The twin stick shifter allows the T-case to be shifted to 2WD Low, which is helpful in making tight turns in rigs equipped with a front locker.

Transmissions
Some early trucks used a four-speed manual transmission for a short time, but it was soon replaced by the five-speed. The '79-'83 five-speed transmission is weaker than later-model units and has a nonremovable cast-iron bellhousing. EFI trucks in 1984 came with a stouter five-speed with a removable aluminum bellhousing and four different versions of these were used through 1995 behind four-cylinder engines. From 1986-1995, two other versions of the five-speed transmission (R150F and R151F) were used along with the four-cylinder Turbo and the 3.0L V6. One automatic transmission was utilized for all Toyota trucks and 4Runners, and it was factory-married with a transfer case unlike all those used with the five-speed manual trans. If an engine or transmission swap is planned for an auto-equipped Toyota, you will also require a geardriven transfer case. Most of the late-model five-speeds are viable candidates for use behind a V6 or V8 engine swap, but the W56 five-speed used in '85-'88 EFI pickups and 4Runners is generally one of the more sought-after. Advance Adapters offers a variety of adapters to facilitate such a conversion as well as adapters to fit alternative transmission candidates such as a 700-R auto or Ford T-18 manual transmission. Toyota manual transmission strength can also be enhanced through the installation of a heavy-duty clutch and flywheel.

Solid-Axle Swap (SAS)
The A-arms and the torsion bars used in the IFS setup are strong and can provide very decent performance in many off-road driving situations, but travel is limited compared to most solid-axle leaf-spring setups. Concerning strength, the biggest issue arises when the IFS axle halfshafts are forced to operate at steeper angles due to larger-than-stock tires. The shafts often break in such situations.

Since Toyota still produced a solid front axle version of the pickup for foreign markets, this meant that the front frame area on IFS rigs was still strong enough and the right width from the factory to support this setup. It didn't take aftermarket manufacturers long to figure this out, and solid-axle swap kits to replace the IFS and torsion bar configuration soon became available.

The stuff you'll need to complete an SAS is available as a complete kit from a lot of vendors, but you could make your own using used and custom parts. Many vendors offer the pieces separately for those who want to construct an SAS on their own. Most off-the-shelf kits include a front spring hanger kit, spring perches, shackles, and springs. Other items that are often included in SAS kits are front shock hoops to facilitate use of longer travel shocks. This is also a good time to locate a high-pinion frontend, but a regular four-cylinder 8-inch frontend will also do the trick. An IFS steering gear is already in place, but you'll still need some high-steer arms, a pitman arm, and a drag link and tie rod to complete the steering system. A new front driveshaft will also be necessary.

Suspension
All of the Toyotas in range can accommodate up to 32-inch tires in stock form, however, the '79-'85 Toyotas can get extra clearance for a 32-inch tire using extended shackles and/or rear lift blocks. Two inches of lift can be achieved in this manner and it typically won't require new springs, shocks, or brake lines. However, a slightly taller shock will lend further ride improvements and extend wheel travel. Installing more than 3- to 4-inch lift springs will require extended brake lines and suspension and steering-correction items like an adjustable drag link, sway-bar extensions, and torque-rod drop brackets. Lifting the rear of the vehicle can be completed using lift blocks, add-a-leaves, or new lifted leaf-spring packs. Body lifts are also available for all of the Toyota truck and 4Runner models in range.

The '79-'85 trucks and 4Runners used a suspension torque rod up front to control axle wind up during braking and acceleration. The rod gets too short as a vehicle is lifted and brackets are available to adjust it to the appropriate height or adjustable rods are also available to lengthen it as needed. An adjustable drag link is also helpful in maintaining factory steering effects. You can run without the torque rod in place, but you will likely experience pull to the right under braking. This is due to the axlehousing rotating which compresses the suspension and moves the drag link. This effect will be lessened in trucks with IFS steering gears and crossover steering arrangements.

In 1986, Toyota changed the front suspension configuration of its trucks and 4Runners to use an IFS setup. The IFS used upper and lower A-arms paired with torsion bars and shocks. The rear suspension on IFS trucks and 4Runners retained the leaf-spring arrangement. In 1990, the 4Runner was redesigned to use a rear coil spring four-link suspension and front coil spring strut arrangement. Rear coil spacers and front ball joint spacers can create lift in these models. You can also replace the rear coils and control arms for more lift. All of the IFS model Toyotas can be converted to use a solid front axle and leaf-spring suspension, which will offer the greatest improvements in vehicle capability and permit use of the tallest tire sizes.

Though not as desirable for all-around trail use, IFS suspensions can be modified to accept larger-than-stock tires. Aftermarket suspension systems often consist of drop-down systems that drop everything (A-arms, differential, torsion bar frame mounts, etc.) down to make more room for larger tires under the fenders. This affects ground clearance since the lift systems usually drop down the lower A-arm mount on the frame and include a spacer to be used between the stock upper ball joint and the steering knuckle to retain factory steering characteristics. Higher-end kits will replace the knuckle completely with a new lift knuckle and also use new, longer A-arms.

One cheap way to lift an IFS Toyota is to "crank up" the torsion bars to raise vehicle ride height. Cranking up the bars will make the suspension stiffer with each turn and will make the angle of the A-arms greater (they sit just about parallel to the ground at stock height). You will need to adjust wheel alignment each time you crank the torsion bars. Cranking up the torsion bars too much or installing a lift over 3 to 4 inches can cause the idler arm to break or bend. A handful of companies offer an idler arm truss to strengthen this component. Also, wheel spacers can be used to add extra width to the vehicle stance, which also effectively repositions the wheels and tires further outboard from the frame and body so that larger tires can be used.

Available factory axle-gear ratios for all years were somewhat consistent with most models receiving the 4.10:1 ratio ring-and-pinion, which will still offer decent power and torque using up to 32-inch tires. Making the leap to a 33-inch tire will require new lower axle gears, like a 4.88. A 35-inch tire will call for 5.29 gears. Basically, the taller the tires installed the lower (numerically higher) the axle gears needed. Available popular aftermarket axle-gear ratios include 4.10:1, 4.88:1, and 5.29:1. Available lockers for the Toyota axles include ARB, Detroit Locker, Detroit EZ Locker, Lock-Right, Auburn LSD, Truetrac, No-Slip, and Aussie Locker. Spools are also available and are an inexpensive means of gaining complete traction in rear axles.

Interior & Exterior
A large variety of body armor items are offered from many vendors. Body armor items include front winch and nonwinch bumpers, rear bumpers with and without tire carriers, rock sliders, transfer case crossmembers, and axle armor/guards. Quite a few weld-in in-cab cages are also available. Other exterior upgrades include fiberglass fenders, half and tube doors, roof racks, and flatbed kits. Along with in-cab rollcage kits, aftermarket seats are another popular option.

TOYOTA TRUCK/4RUNNER ENGINES
20R	'79-'80 trucks
22R	'81-'96 trucks, '84 4Runner
22RE	'85-'95 trucks, '85-'95 4Runners
22RTE	'85-'88 pickups and 4Runners
3VZE V6	'88-'95 trucks, '88-'95 4Runners

Toyota pickup axles are renowned for their light weight, low cost, and high strength. Although they don't offer the ground clearance of portal axles or the massive ring gear of a Corporate 14-bolt, these axles are popping up under a wide variety of vehicles beyond Toyotas, including Jeeps, Samurais, and buggies, because of the features mentioned above. As good as they are from the factory, like most components they can still benefit from advances made in the aftermarket.

Stock Front Axle
Toyota used a solid front axle in the '79-'85 pickups and 4Runners. All of these axles were 55.5 inches wide from wheel mounting surface (WMS) to wheel mounting surface and came with solid front disc brakes and closed knuckles with Birfields. These axles also came with push-pull steering and a torque-rod bracket welded to the housing. They use the same 8-inch third member and 1-5/16-inch axleshafts as the rear axle, simplifying part swapping. The Birfields are 30-spline at the hub, and the inner axles are 27-spline at the Birfield end and 30-spline at the differential end. Earlier axles had no trussing on the long side, but over the years Toyota increased the size of the truss under the housing until eventually it spanned the long side of the housing by 1984.

Front Axle Upgrades
Aftermarket Birfields
By far the weakest link in Toyota axles are the stock Birfields. These joints have limited angularity and are prone to cracking with the steering at full lock and power applied. Long's Enterprises developed Longfields that address all of the factory shortcomings. The latest generation of Longfields are 30-spline from the differential to the hub and are made from chrome-moly. The inner race is machined from 300M and is smaller than stock to add thickness to the outer bell. In addition to the strength, Longfields are able to provide a much tighter turn radius than stock Birfields due to their tapered design.

Inner Axles
Aftermarket Birfields used in conjunction with stock axleshafts can transfer the weak link to the splines where the shaft mates with the Birfield. Poly Performance sells chrome-moly inner axleshafts that do not neck down like the stock shafts and which eliminate the need for a C-clip to retain the axle.

Upgraded Hub Studs
When hub studs shear, they often render the wheel hub useless. In order to cure this problem, Front Range Off-Road Fabrication developed hardened chrome-moly studs that feature rolled splines and include high-quality locknuts for proper retention.

Chrome-Moly Hubs
After upgrading the Birfields and inner axles, the stock hubs become the weak link. Drive flanges from an FJ80 Land Cruiser can be used to replace the hubs, but Long's Enterprises has a more practical solution for those who don't want their front driveshaft spinning all the time. Long developed 4340 chrome-moly hub gears that are significantly stronger than stock and won't strip the splines off of your high-dollar aftermarket Birfields.

Beefed Steering Stops
The stock steering stops consist of a small piece of triangular metal strap-welded to the housing. Adding huge tires and hydraulic-assist steering can bend the stops, causing the Birfields to bind and break. To prevent this, Inchworm Gear makes fully boxed steering stops out of heavy-gauge steel. The new stops weld directly in place of the factory steering stops and offer greatly increased strength.

Crossover Steering
From the factory, solid-axle Toyotas came equipped with push-pull steering that was used in conjunction with a torque rod. The torque rod limits articulation, but removing it can result in broken drag links and steering arms. All-Pro Off-Road offers a kit that replaces the entire steering system with a crossover configuration using an IFS Toyota steering box, forged steering arms, 0.250-wall DOM links, and 23mm FJ80 tie-rod ends. The tie rod is also moved above the springs and behind the axle for greater protection on the trail.

Upgraded Knuckle Studs
Just as with the hub studs, knuckle studs can shear as well. This is often an issue when wide, heavy tires are used in conjunction with rims with minimal backspacing. Front Range Off-Road Fabrication is the sole distributor for ARP knuckle studs. The new studs are hardened chrome-moly and feature rolled splines for additional strength.

Brake Upgrades
The factory brake calipers and solid rotors only do a marginal job of stopping small stock tires, so when you add more weight and leverage they are really overwhelmed. Vented rotors from an '81-or-later FJ40 can be used in conjunction with calipers from an IFS pickup for improved braking force and less fade. The later V6 calipers had larger pistons that provide more braking force than the earlier IFS calipers.

All-Pro D60 Hybrid
Many of the aforementioned upgrades have been bundled into one beefy axle from All-Pro Off-Road.

All-Pro replaces everything from the knuckles out with 1-ton components. The company's hybrid axle features F-450 U-joints, bearings, and hubs with Wilwood calipers and rotors that provide increased stopping for large tires. The brakes fit under 15-inch wheels and even retain the stock 6x5.5 bolt pattern.

High-Pinion Third Members
FJ80 Land Cruisers used a front third member that is interchangeable with the solid axles found in pickups and 4Runners. The Land Cruisers used a high-pinion third member with a reverse-cut ring-and-pinion that is stronger than the low-pinion third member used in stock front axles and which offers 4 inches more ground clearance for your driveshaft and pinion flange.

Axle Truss
Large tires increase leverage, which can result in bent axlehousings, particularly if the vehicle is jumped. All-Pro Off-Road sells a truss that can be welded to the top of your axlehousing for improved rigidity with no loss of ground clearance.

Stock Rear Axle
Toyota used a solid rear axle with an 8-inch ring gear and 1-5/16-inch 30-spline axleshafts exclusively through '95, and even later in some Tacomas, T100s, and 4Runners. Early axles were 55 inches wide to match the front solid axle and increased by 3 inches when the switch to IFS was made in 1986. With the added width in '86, the axletubes grew larger and the brake drums were also enlarged from 10 inches to 11.6 inches. All pickups and '89-and-earlier 4Runners used leaf springs, while later 4Runners used a four-link and coil-spring suspension, making these axles more difficult to retrofit into other vehicles.

Rear Axle Upgrades
V6 Third Members
The third member from a V6 or 22RTE turbo-powered truck bolts directly in place of the standard four-cylinder third members yet is stronger due to the four spider gears, larger ring-and-pinion, larger bearings, and stiffer third-member housing.

Upgraded Axleshafts
Poly Performance offers upgraded axleshafts made from 4340 chrome-moly. The shafts accept stock bearings and brakes and use rolled splines and a tapered design for maximum strength.

Rear Disc Brakes
Larger-than-stock tires can lead to increased braking distances due to the added leverage and weight of the bigger meats. All-Pro Off-Road has a bolt-on rear disc-brake kit that provides shorter stopping distances, easier maintenance, and less unsprung weight.

Full Floater
Several of the above ideas have been integrated into one comprehensive package from Front Range Off-Road Fabrication. The kit converts the rear semifloating axle to a full floater using custom-machined and factory Toyota components. In addition to the increased load-bearing capacity and safety, the FROR full-floater kit also incorporates chrome-moly axleshafts and disc brakes for even greater strength and performance.

Axle Truss
Adding an axle truss can strengthen your axlehousing and resist bending the tubes - particularly if you like to jump your truck. Downey Off-Road offers a weld-on truss that incorporates a polyurethane bushing in the middle to accommodate a traction bar as well.

Upgrades for Front and Rear Axles
Solid SpacerMost aftermarket gearsets come with a crush sleeve that fits between the pinion bearings and is collapsed during the installation process to set preload.

A solid spacer is available from All-Pro Off-Road that eliminates the possibility of excess backlash and the need to retighten the pinion nut.

Electric Lockers
Toyota used an 8-inch centersection with a factory electric locker in TRD Tacomas and some 4Runners. With minor housing modifications, this third member can be retrofitted into any 8-inch housing for an open differential on the road with the traction of a spool at the flip of a switch. FZJ80s even came with an optional high-pinion electric locker in the frontend. Factory ratios were 4.10, 4.30, and 4.56, but Inchworm Gear can set you up with an electric locker and the related wiring in any gear ratio you desire.

Low-Profile Drain Plugs
The factory drain plug on Toyota housings is a hex-head plug that we have seen get knocked loose on more than one trail ride. BudBuilt stocks low-profile drain plugs that use an Allen wrench for removal, so they will stay put on the trail and you can still remove them when necessary.

Diff Armor
The factory differential housing is stamped steel and can be dented and contact the ring gear during hard contact with rocks. All-Pro Off-Road's diff armor welds to the factory housing and protects the ring gear from any impacts.

4Crawler Shaved Diff
A more complicated way to armor your axlehousing: Remove the drain plug completely and gain ground clearance with 4Crawler's high-clearance axle kit. This kit requires you to cut off the bottom of your axlehousing and weld in the supplied pieces to realize the above benefits.

Diamond Axlehousings
The ultimate in strength, front or rear, comes in the form of Diamond Axles axlehousings. These all-new housings feature 1/2-inch-thick mounting flanges, 3/4 inch more clearance than stock housings, and 1-inch-thick steering stops on front housings. Diamond axles can be ordered in custom widths with a variety of options including Dana 44 or Dana 60 knuckles, semifloater or full-floater ends, and driver- or passenger-side drop.

What better place to test the strength and durability of Fab Fours new Jeep JK replacement bumpers and Warn's 9.5ti Winch, than the all mighty Rubicon Trail. After trashing our stock bumpers in Moab, for the '07 Easter Jeep Safari, we were in dire need of replacements. It really doesn't take much effort to disfigure the stock JK front and rear bumpers, which we experienced firsthand. The stockers span the entire width of the new JK, reducing the approach and departure angles and quite frankly, they just get in the way of things.

Traversing the Rubicon Trail, without inflicting major damage to your rig, takes skill and a little bit of luck. So, to help ensure a trouble-free trip, we outfitted our new '07 Jeep JK Wrangler Rubicon with Fab Fours heavy duty front and rear bumper protection, as well as a "get out of jail free card", in the form of a Warn 9.5ti Winch.

The Fab Fours JK front winch bumper is built from 3/16 inch steel plating and is finished off in a textured powder coat finish. The stealth fighter-like design, includes a winch mount and two 1" D-ring mounts. Another benefit is recessed turn indicators and Hella fog lamps. The tapered bumper ends and front fascia literally slide off obstacles. The front bumper is relatively lightweight at 140 pounds, compared to the chintzy stock bumpers which weigh a meager 30 pounds. There's an optional pre-runner style hoop, made from 1.75" by 1/5" steel tubing.

Fab Fours JK rear bumper with integrated tire carrier, evens out the entire package, with its innovative "knife-edge" design. While sliding off the Rubicon Trails granite ledges, the tapered bumper ends enabled the rear end of the Jeep to slide off ledges, instead of pounding down on a flat surface. On a few occasions, I thought for certain that I had caved in the rear body corners of the Jeep. But, after closer inspection, the rocks that did happen to touch the rear bumper, merely etched the powder coat finish. There were no dents or dings to be had on the bumper or the body.

The tire carrier pivot is rated to 1,250 pounds and has a locking pin that enables you to swing the tire rack out of the way for rear storage access. The tire carrier will handle up to a 37" tire. Located next to the spare tire carrier is a vertical hi-lift jack mount. The mounting threads are the same thread as the JK's wheel lug bolts, so you can secure your hi-lift jack with matching wheel locks. Also included is a CB antenna mount, two recessed 1" D-ring mounts and a 2" tow receiver. The tow receiver was the only portion of the bumper that really showed any sort of rock rub, but this was to be expected.

Again, no structural damage here, only a little rubbing off of the powder coat, which can be easily touched up with a paint rattle can.

Last, but not least, we installed Warn's 9.5ti Thermometric self recovery winch, that tucked securely into the Fab Four's front bumper. We ended up not having to use our Warn 9.5ti winch on this trip, but it sure was reassuring to have the added security. Installation was as simple as tightening four bolts, running the positive and negative cables to the battery, engaging the winch clutch and then pushing the line "in" or "out" button on the remote control switch. Integrated into the remote switch is a thermometric indicator that gives the operator information about motor temperature during the winching operation. Warn's patented Gen II Series Wound motor delivers the tremendous torque needed to pull a fully outfitted vehicle out of almost any situation. The Warn 9.5ti's rated single line pull is a whooping 9,500 pounds and came fitted with 125 feet of 5/16 inch winch cable and a roller fairlead. Wrapping up the safety factor is Daystar Products new winch isolator, which eliminates rattles and gives your winch hook a happy home.

The bumper and winch installation took approximately three hours and can be completed by any offroad enthusiasts with moderate mechanical abilities. Except for an extra hand needed to lift the bumper up and onto the Jeep, it's a one-man operation. The only time consuming portion of the entire install, is wiring up the turn indicator and fog lights on the front bumper. The instructions are very straight forward and there were no alignment or trimming issues.

The transformation from stock bumpe