Steering Checklist
1. The tie rod and drag link must never intersect or scissor across one another or the track bar.
2. Steering rod clamps and jam nuts must not hang up or catch on springs, brackets, or chassis parts. Clamps can usually be rotated and tightened to avoid a problem. Think about the effect of suspension and steering movements.
3. The tie-rod ends must be threaded into sleeves or rods at least slightly larger than the diameter of the threaded shank (e.g. a 7/8-inch-diameter shank should be threaded into a sleeve at least 1 inch or more).
4. The rod-end ball sockets should be firm, not loose. They must be greased immediately upon installation and pumped with fresh grease as needed.
We also examined full droop...
We also examined full droop to the passenger side.
5. Never allow the rod-end ball sockets to reach their limit of swivel under any suspension and steering position. Not all rod ends have the same limits of swivel, and some move more in one direction than another. Extreme downtravel positions are the most likely cause of swivel limitations. Whenever possible, remove the dust boot before articulation tests. Make sure the bodies of the rod ends will not interfere with the surfaces around the mounting holes.
Notice at full compression,...
Notice at full compression, even without shocks, there is no binding or scissoring of the steering components.
6. The tapered shanks on automotive rod ends are not all the same; they vary extensively in both size and degree of taper. Test-fit the tapered shanks of the rod ends in their respective holes. It's best to remove the dust boot before test-fitting. The rod ends should seat firmly in the taper without rocking, and the holes for the cotter pins should just engage the cuts in the castle nut.
7. Inspect the steering frequently. Look for wear marks, cracks, and signs of interference. Carry some spare rod ends and hardware.
Here are the steering components...
Here are the steering components at full droop and turned to the left. There is still no binding, even as the passenger-side tire just touches the inner side of the fenderwell.
An Important Word About Hydraulic Assist Systems
Most add-on hydraulic assist (ram type) systems have been designed independently from the steering linkage and steering arm components. If the hydraulic ram continues to push on the linkage after the knuckle stops or the steering gear stops have been reached, significant damage can result if the hydraulic ram has too much power. Carefully evaluate the pump pressure, ram piston diameters, ram travel, and steering stops to make sure your steering is not being constantly overstressed each time you turn hard left or right. Remember, it's a vehicle steering mechanism, not a log splitter or tire dismounting device. Reduce pressure and find a ram cylinder with the appropriate travel that runs out at the same time or just before the steering linkage and knuckle stops.
Dynatrac's steering system...
Dynatrac's steering system works perfectly at full compression even with the tires and wheels mounted. You will notice that travel is not limited by any of the steering components.
Dynatrac offers its High Clearance steering package which has been rigorously engineered to fulfill all the key requirements for an effective TJ steering package. The kit is built to provide increased ground clearance and incredible strength, and it maximizes the full travel of the steering gear while minimizing bumpsteer and eliminating linkage scissoring and collision.
The system includes a tie rod and a drag link constructed from 1.25x0.313-inch DOM tubing, extremely tough sway-bar and track-bar mounting brackets, and a fully adjustable track bar. The kit also uses readily available replacement rod ends and the stock pitman arm.