As you can tell, there is a major difference in this Jeep's complexion. Virtually all outer body rust was removed, then the vehicle was sprayed with a metal-etching primer and high-build primer to help with bodywork and prevent future corrosion.
I am really curious how many good Jeeps end up at the wrecking yard because their owners just don't think their old rust buckets can be saved. With a little elbow grease, the right tools, and good-quality paint prep products, there is life after death for an old rig.
At first glance, this old 1960s Jeep looks like it has had it and is ready for the scrap heap. In literally less than an hour and with very little effort, I had the rust completely stripped off this Jeep and had it ready for an etching and high-build primer.
If you asked a hundred different auto body experts, you would probably get a hundred different answers on the best way to do this kind of work. Now I'm not undertaking a full high-dollar frame-off restoration of this Jeep, but I would like to get the vehicle looking somewhat decent, remove all the rust, and protect it from future corrosion.
Shown are an etching primer and high-build primer product from PCL. Also shown is Metalprep, a metal preparation product from Henkel Technologies which can be found at most automotive paint supply outlets. Two very basic HVLP gravity-feed spray guns from Harbor Freight are also shown. These are great for the beginners or low-end work as they are very economical. Don't show them to an automotive body purist because they will more than likely berate you for buying cheap equipment. I received the evil eye from the guy at the paint shop when I brought mine in looking for a regulator. The bottom line is that they serve their purpose and will save you about $120. | 
With the Metalprep and a Scotch-Brite pad, I completely stripped the rust from the outer body of the Jeep in less than an hour. I was absolutely amazed at how well the chemical worked. To mix Metalprep is simple: one part product and two parts water. Scrub the body for 1 to 2 minutes and rinse off. Repeat if necessary. I scrubbed in sections, rinsing each with fresh water. |  |
This is the end result of very little effort and a good quality metal preparation product. | 
When painting a vehicle, it is up to personal preference how many components like door handles, trim, and molding you want to remove. Just keep in mind that the more you take off and the better you tape with a good-quality masking tape, the more professional-looking job you will attain. Complete mixing directions for PCL's 190 Pro Etch and Polyprimer are available from the manufacturer. If you use the 190 Pro Etch, it must be followed up with the Polyprimer within 1 hour. Mix exactly according to the products' instructions. The Polyprimer sets up very quickly, so much so in fact that I ended up throwing my spray gun away when I was done. My best advice would be to mix a small amount of Polyprimer at a time. I have to thank Harbor Freight for the economical equipment - I'm sure glad it wasn't a $175 spray gun I threw in the trash. When spraying on the primer, use a steady side-to-side or up-and-down motion. Stop at the end of each stroke, and then move on to spray the next location, slightly overlapping the last stroke. | 
Dents are more easily detected once the primer is on the vehicle. Solid color helps bring imperfections out on a vehicle's body. I didn't notice these slight dents until after spraying the Jeep with primer. This makes it easy to start the bodywork. |