Using AEV's Brute conversion...
Using AEV's Brute conversion kit, Mel Wade and the Off Road Evolution crew are transforming our yellow Project TJ. The Brute kit includes a new cab closeout assembly and stretches the wheelbase 24 inches to accept a stamped-steel truck bed. The final stages of the buildup will be featured in the Sept. and Oct. '07 issues of 4WD&SU.
Last month, we introduced the most recent step we're taking with our yellow Project TJ. The well-equipped '01 Jeep Wrangler was going under the knife at Off Road Evolution in Fullerton, California, to receive AEV's Brute pickup conversion kit. With the complete kit in place, we'll gain a 117.4-inch wheelbase and a heavy-duty, 14-gauge, stamped-steel pickup bed that measures 72x59x17 inches.
Although AEV indicated that we should expect a good two weeks of labor time just to get the rig to the painter, we had a different finish-date goal in mind since we planned on taking the freshly completed (and painted) Brute to the Easter Jeep Safari in Moab less than two weeks after we'd begin the conversion. We had our work cut out for us, but it wasn't an impossible feat. Check out the details of the conversion in the following photos and captions, and check out the next couple of issues of 4WD&SU as we complete our Brute project and put it to the test on trails from California to Utah.
 AEV's frame-extension kit...  AEV's frame-extension kit includes two intricately designed cutting jigs that help ensure that both framerails are cut and welded to the same dimensions. Twenty-four-inch frame extensions, frame sleeves, and reinforcing fish plates help complete the extension process. |  The rear frame extension is...  The rear frame extension is designed to be welded to the rear framehorns and rear frame crossmember. It offers an integrated rear winch mount and a receiver hitch and also supports the rear section of the bed assembly using factory body mounts. |  The body and frame of the...  The body and frame of the TJ had stayed relatively straight over the years, but our donor full doors -- particularly the driver-side door -- required a bit of tweaking before we were satisfied with their fitment. A straight body and frame are critical to achieving the finest overall finished product, and AEV recommends completing any necessary body or frame work prior to beginning a Brute conversion. Here, 4WD&SU Editor-in-Chief Kevin McNulty lends some muscle to the job. |
 A number of factory-body spot-welds...  A number of factory-body spot-welds must be drilled out so that the rear tub section can be removed. The areas circled show spot-weld groupings that will be drilled. |  The spot-welds that attach...  The spot-welds that attach the rear floor to the waterfall were removed, and we used a flat-blade to pry away the factory adhesive. A good deal of seam sealer was also removed. |  Once all of the spot-welds...  Once all of the spot-welds were freed, Mel used a Sawzall to cut the tub sides and inside along the wheelwells. We were careful to not cut the inner body section with the door striker-plate mounts that is attached to the rollbar hoop. This piece is referred to as the "pork chop". |
 The rear body section was...  The rear body section was then removed and set aside. It will likely serve as a couch/product display in Off Road Evolution's new showroom. |  With the rear tub section...  With the rear tub section removed, we moved to the body sides. After measuring 33 inches back from the front of the cab, the body sides were cut, being careful not to cut the floor section. Note the many removed spot-welds. |  We removed the door strikers...  We removed the door strikers and pried away adhesive to reveal the inner "pork chop" body piece beneath the body sides. Note where the door strikers would normally be secured. |