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1999 Jeep Cherokee XJ Regulator Repair - XJ Cherokee RepairsReplacing A Power Window Regulator From the January, 2010 issue of 4 Wheel Drive By Moses Ludel Photography by Moses Ludel
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The XJ Cherokee proves its mettle, both on- and off-pavement. Differing from the spartan 4WDs, most XJs have power options and creature comforts. Intended as an all-season grocery grabber and commuter SUV, a well-equipped XJ might have air conditioning, power steering, power windows, and power door locks. Convenience items and a solid, wagon-style body further enhance the XJ Cherokee's appeal. Weather, it would seem, hardly bothers an XJ — unless plagued by a power window regulator's failure. Without warning or ceremony, with no strange noises or telltale signs, the cable-operated regulators can simply fail. Be assured, if a regulator fails in a blizzard, the trip home will be memorable! The typical scenario starts with applying the window switch, followed by a slight ratcheting noise, indicating that the lift mechanism or cable has stripped or the cable has broken — usually snapping loose at the crimped end. The motor may be perfectly fine, the regulator frame and lift still function, and the cable just strips or fails! If the cable breaks loose, it often spools out of its sheath and jams up inside the door. Do not attempt to operate the regulator if you suspect a stripped or flopping cable! When our 1999 XJ's right front-window regulator failed without notice, there was no reason to suspect another window would soon follow — but it did. The driver's door regulator broke less than 10,000 miles later (the duty-cycle and life expectancy of these parts is apparently accurate). On four-door models, front window regulators generally fatigue first, perhaps due to more usage than the rear doors' windows. So, if you own an '83-to-'01 XJ Cherokee, and if the power regulators are original, expect a regulator repair at some point. While these mechanisms often last well past the 100,000-mile mark, their replacement is inevitable. Note: Model year differences do exist. Before tackling a regulator replacement, refer to a factory shop manual for your XJ’s year and body style.  Failure of the regulator is...  Failure of the regulator is generally not the motor, rails, sliding lift, or glass attachments. The cable itself is vulnerable to breaking, stripping, or simply snapping loose near the crimped end as shown here. Do not attempt to open and close the window if the cable strips. The cable may unravel inside the door and cause further damage.  Electrical repairs begin with...  Electrical repairs begin with disconnecting the battery cables. Next, remove the door panel. Screw layouts vary over model years. Check for screws at the door handle inset (shown above), the outer panel edge, and the door armrest. Take your time and make sure all screws are loose before attempting to remove the door panel.  A special tool is available...  A special tool is available to release panel clips from the steel door structure. The goal is not to damage the clips, wires, sealing membrane, trim, or paint. An alternative tool is a simple putty knife. Here, a broader putty knife slides easily between the door's frame and panel, without distorting the plastic. Pry carefully.  Behind the panel is the wiring...  Behind the panel is the wiring harness and plugs. When you lift the panel upward to release it from the windowsill seal, do not pull the panel away with force. The wires and switch panel must be handled carefully; this is aging plastic and often brittle. Note that plugs have release latches. Never force a plug connection apart.  The great thing about mass...  The great thing about mass assembly design is the relative ease of disassembly! Release rods for the door handle and lock have quick connectors. Be careful, though, since older plastic parts can break. Loosen and pivot these clips carefully, and the rods will come loose without difficulty.  Unless you want to chase down...  Unless you want to chase down obsolete parts, handle the plastic membrane (water dam) with care! There is adhesive on the backside, so pull steadily and allow the adhesive to yield as you separate the membrane. The rods will slide out through a slit in the cover. Keep the cover intact.  To prevent damaging the glass,...  To prevent damaging the glass, loosen the attachment screws while supporting the glass. Do not allow the glass to drop, as it could land solidly and crack or shatter. Slide the glass upward in its channel to the closed position. Use a suitable wedge at the sill edge to hold the glass safely out of the way. (Some prefer removing the glass.)  In this case, a broad putty...  In this case, a broad putty knife slides easily past the rubber sill edge. Do not damage the sill rubber seal. Apply enough wedging force to keep the glass from dropping. You now have access to the regulator lift mechanism and the motor assembly. Make sure the glass is supported snugly. If in doubt, carefully remove the glass from the door.  Again, mass assembly design...  Again, mass assembly design includes a regulator post and motor secured with nuts or studs. Nuts or bolts loosened a few turns will enable lifting the regulator or motor upward and then out of the drop-in slots. At this point, items of concern are the wiring and plug socket for the motor.  Lift post tilted out of the...  Lift post tilted out of the way, the motor and cable housing come outward. Detach the plug from the door, and lift the plug out with the motor. Avoid stressing or stretching wires and harnesses. Take your time and respect the age of parts. Damaged plastic, broken insulation, and chipped factory connectors may be hard to replace.  If you need to reuse this...  If you need to reuse this clip, do not force it from the plug. This clip locks the connector halves together and prevents loose connections inside the door. Note the tension slits and notches in the clip. Using a tiny screwdriver or paper clip, pry the tabs in a way that releases the clip without breaking it.  This plug assembly goes beyond...  This plug assembly goes beyond the red interlocking clip, adding a squeeze tab and notch to lock halves together. A squeeze tab and cross clip assures that the connector will stay safely together. Do not damage these tabs and clips. Over time, they become brittle. Excessive force will break these parts.  The motor and regulator assemblies...  The motor and regulator assemblies are now out of the door, and the new parts can be installed. Make sure wires and insulation are in good condition. Inspect the plug connector for damage or bent contacts. Check for signs of cable damage and wire chafing. Make sure wires will be protected from moving parts.  Since the motor, cable, and...  Since the motor, cable, and lift post install as an assembly, begin by carefully feeding the arm and cable into the door opening. Here, the arm/lift is set on a tilt away from the motor location. This allows easier access for motor positioning. Do not kink the cable or twist and force parts. Take your time here.  The new motor's plug is connected...  The new motor's plug is connected to the door wiring harness after plug connectors clip and lock together. The plug connector has a post clip that fits into a hole in the door's frame. When the clip is seated, the plug and wires should be in their original position. Align motor studs at the original locations. Use Loctite 242 on fasteners.  On this '99 XJ, the cable...  On this '99 XJ, the cable housing fits between the lower post and the door's sheet metal frame. The cable routes correctly if this plastic clip (bottom) fits into the hole in the door's frame. Aligning bolts and nuts in their original positions can minimize the need for post adjustments.  Note the bolt positions on...  Note the bolt positions on the original brace. Use Loctite 242 on threads and finger tighten the bolts. Gently push the glass against the rear edge of the window channel. Hold the glass in this position while securing the bolts. The glass can crack if you over-torque bolts. Recommended torque for this '99 application is 53 lb-in (less than 5 lb-ft).  All parts safely installed,...  All parts safely installed, the membrane or "water dam" tacks back against its adhesive. If original adhesive does not hold, 3M body molding adhesive will. Note that rods, plugs, and wire plugs are now ready to attach. The panel installation begins by aligning and seating the top sill slot. Make sure parts fit their original positions.  When dropping the panel into...  When dropping the panel into position, align screw posts with holes in the doorframe. Take your time, placing the panel in line with screw holes and plastic tab slots. Common plastic clips can be replaced if worn or broken. When panel screws are back in place, you can connect the battery cables, turn on the key, and test your work!
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