ProtoFab Rock Solid Bumpers - The XJ Formerly Known As "J_ep"

These brackets tie the rear bumper to the subframe rail.

For this installation, the Jeep went back to Desolate Motorsports, where Greg Gilbert, Matt Carter, and Danny McKenna were ready with the wrenches. We all anticipated insufferably rusty bolts, but it seems the leaky engine kept rust from forming too extensively on the front end. A few of the front bumper's bolts were tricky to access.

Something looked a wacky up front. Carter measured the distance between the tip of the subframe rail and the bottom of the grille.

It turned out that the right front of the XJ had taken a hit sometime in its past life. This partially buckled the front of the subframe rail and sent the forward most mounting tabs a half-inch to the rear. Danny tried to straighten out the divot with a pry bar. The dent didn't want to move.

The subframe still seemed strong enough, so the divot was left in place and the rear-most bracket hole was elongated to let the bracket creep forward. With the elongated rear hole, the front bolt holes all lined up as needed.

Carter and McKenna performed a trial fit without the winch installed. The trial fit was successful, so McKenna loaded the winch into the front bumper and snugged down the bolts. It's easier to install the winch into the bumper before installing the bumper onto the Jeep.

The winch-and-bumper combo was hefty enough to require two people. If you're installing this solo, an engine hoist will be your best friend.

It was time to feed the winch power cables up to the battery. The operation is easier if you know one simple trick. Electricians already know what we're alluding to.

Carter holds the key to successful cable feeding. First, lower a fairly stiff wire down through the intended passage. Next, tape the lugged ends of the power cables to the wire. Finally, pull the wire and the taped-on cables up and through the passage.

There was enough thread on the battery terminal clamps to fasten the power cables on the outside of the primary nuts. This battery is missing a hold down, so that's another thing to take care of before venturing too far.

The Ramsey winch we're using is equipped with Ramsey's remote control. This junction box needed a home, and a great perch was found on a plate just forward of the firewall. The system's antenna sticks to the bumper with a powerful built-in magnet. We'll top off the front bumper next time with a pair of Daystar lights.

The rear bumper was next. Again, we were fearful of seized, rusted bolts. Most came off without drama, thanks to blue Loctite applied to several fasteners. After the bumper's shell is removed, you'll come to the bumper brackets (circled) that need to go next.

This XJ was equipped with a Class 3 hitch that was rusted beyond belief. The wall thickness may have started out at 0.120-inch or so, but thanks to peeling rust, it was probably down to 0.090-inch. A couple of the bolts were stubborn. To loosen the bolts, they were first heated up with a propane torch.

While still hot, they were sprayed with penetrating oil. The heat sucked the oil right into the threads; you could actually see the penetrating oil disappear inside. This method was followed by a long-handled wrench on the bolt heads. They gave in and loosened up.

The rear bumper's tie-in brackets bolt to the underside of the subframe rail using factory hardware on existing holes. They then tie to the bumper's tabs using Protofab-supplied fasteners.

The hitch's wiring plug needed a new home in the absence of the old hitch. Carter cut the wiring plug bracket off of the old hitch and re-welded it out of the way, tucked up tight to the body. This new location is accessible, but out of reach for most trail obstacles.

The tire carrier swings well away from the rear hatch's path, giving unimpeded access to the rear cargo area.

The poorly-functioning ABS system is the problem, and this new dual-diaphragm brake booster from Dave's Customs Unlimited is the solution. Dave's Customs owner, Dave Seger, custom-configures each booster system with a master cylinder that's right for each Jeep's axles, brakes, and tire size. Dave informed that the factory ABS system didn't work well even when new and there's no doubt the system on this Jeep needs some new parts thrown at it to work as designed. Instead of throwing parts at a fundamentally flawed system, we're going to throw that system away for something that gives real braking power. Stay tuned for Part III.