Sometimes it’s good to mess with success. Our ’04 4Runner’s suspension performs exceptionally well both on the street and in the dirt, but we wanted to take the performance to the next level.
In the dirt the ’Runner copes quite well with small to medium bumps at low to medium speed, but runs out of damping control when pushed beyond these parameters. Things get bouncy. For better control in the bigger stuff, we’ll add key components that will leave our smooth ride intact but will come into play just when they’re needed.
Adding speed should always mean adding strength at the same time. A simple pair of front suspension gussets will reinforce the frontend’s coilover buckets and double-shear the upper A-arm mounts in one fell swoop.
Follow along as we step up to stage II.
Up front, a pair of Sway-A-Way...
Up front, a pair of Sway-A-Way two-tube bypass shocks are the key to adding position-sensitive control.
They’re specifically made...
They’re specifically made for the Total Chaos 3.5-over-per-side long-travel suspension already in place. The 2.5-inch shock body uses custom bypass tube placement, and the shocks are specifically configured for the right and left sides of the front end. Materials and build quality are top-notch: functional metallic artistry.
Total Chaos makes a secondary...
Total Chaos makes a secondary shock hoop just for this situation. It’s designed to attach to the top of the factory coilover bucket and arch down to the vertical face of the frame. Welding is required.
The rear suspsension’s configuration...
The rear suspsension’s configuration makes it tough to get much wheel travel, so the key is to maximize the quality and control. To that end, a pair of Sway-A-Way 2.0 bump stops will provide bottoming control over the bigger bumps. Much more than a pair of factory-style rubber bump stops, hydraulic bump stops are able to slow down the suspension’s movement before they stop it cold. This pair’s stroke has been shortened to 2 inches to complement the rear suspension’s total travel of 9 inches. By changing internal spacers, the stroke can extend up to 4 inches.
Every good bump stop needs...
Every good bump stop needs a good home, so a pair of Kartek Off-Road bump stop mounting cans perfectly fit the bill. They’re made from seamless tubing and feature dual pinch bolts using F911 hardware.
The contact pressure of a...
The contact pressure of a hydraulic bump stop is greater than with a stock-style rubber bump stop, so a dedicated strike pad is a must. Synergy Suspension makes two styles of weld-on strike pads: over-the-axle (shown here) and offset. Both styles are inexpensive and simple to weld on. Synergy Suspension is available through Poly Performance.
Here are the front suspension...
Here are the front suspension gussets we mentioned earlier. Made by Total Chaos Fabrication, they tie the coilover buckets to the frame and double-shear the upper control arm mounts. The upper control arms are fastened to the frame with an uber-long factory bolt that’s prone to bending and just about impossible to extract once bent. These gussets will prevent any trouble before it has a chance to happen.
Sooner or later, you’ll need...
Sooner or later, you’ll need to add nitrogen to either shock reservoirs or bump stops. Kartek Off-Road offers a regulator and hose that’s configured for this exact purpose. To make pressure adjustment exactly right, Kartek’s suspension pressure gauge provides rugged precision. The Kartek pressure gauge’s body is made from billet aluminum, and the gauge is liquid-filled. The liquid filling means the gauge can withstand accidental jolts and bumps inside a toolbox without losing accuracy. Pressures up to 400 psi can accurately be measured and adjusted.
Our rear suspension benefits...
Our rear suspension benefits from a set of Total Chaos links, which use a fixed urethane bushing at one end and a Teflon-lined Heim joint at the other. We’re replacing the Heims with a set of custom Currie Johnny Joints, which isolate the central spherical bearing with a set of custom-molded urethane bushings. As a result, the Johnny Joints run quieter and last longer.
Let the installation begin!...
Let the installation begin! For the best access while working, we stripped off the entire suspension as well as the CV axle. We didn’t take the CV axle out of the differential. Instead, we pulled the boot off of the inner CV joint and pulled the joint apart, protecting each side with a plastic bag, a shop rag, and zip ties.
The factory rubber liners...
The factory rubber liners have to be removed, too. We’ll probably reinstall them if they still fit with the new shock and gussets in place. This tab has to go either way. A rotary cutoff tool makes it easy.
The coilover bucket gussets...
The coilover bucket gussets are meant to be used with Total Chaos upper control arms (stock length or long-travel) only. They’ll replace the two end washers; the inner washers remain.
The rearmost gussets have...
The rearmost gussets have a slot that lets you install the gussets without disassembling the brake lines. Since paint has to be removed and the gussets have to be carefully shaped and fitted to each side (factory weld placements vary by frame) the brake lines were pulled out of the way for this installation.
Better fitment means better...
Better fitment means better welds. Considerable time was spent grinding and shaping the gussets at the edges to make sure the fit was ideal. Paint has to be cleaned off, too. Again, factory weld placements vary and you’ll need to grind down the factory welds or grind the edges of the Total Chaos gussets, or a little of both. Spend the time making an ideal fit before starting up the welding machine.
You’ll want to leave the factory...
You’ll want to leave the factory A-arm bolt, inner washers, and bushing sleeves in place during welding to keep things from moving as you weld. To make access easier, the inner washers were stacked against the gussets instead of remaining in their usual locations. It’s the total distance that’s important here, not the position of the inner washers. Weld everywhere you can reach on both sides of the gussets. The vertical welds down the coilover buckets were the most difficult.